Powersledge Pink-Kar Bugatti - Printable Version

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Powersledge Pink-Kar Bugatti - CMOTD - 27th-Sep-19

As we all know, the Scalextric type 59 Bugatti is a very rare beast and anybody rich enough to own one will never play with it because it is worth too much. Fortunately Pink-Kar produced a lot of replica versions so we could all have one in our collection. Although the body was a perfect imitation they really weren't much use as racers. They had a rubbish open frame motor like the original Airfix cars, a useless front guide/wheel assembly and a high centre of gravity so they tipped over at the slightest hint of a bend.

However, in the powersledge thread I mentioned that Scalextric used Bugatti bodies to test out their new power train and it is perfectly possible to convert the Pink-Kar version to this type of motor which will transform its handling and give you a very nicely performing, if somewhat sedate, race car. NSCC member Mike Ronald had the original idea and wrote an article about it for their magazine many years ago. I have updated and reproduced his instructions below. Build photos provided by Clive Mills (Mazda). The full article can be found in the March 2008 journal copy on the NSCC website.

If you want to have a go then this is what you do:

Parts needed
1) Pink-Kar Bugatti. It is essential to start with a good car - no distortions in body alignment. They are not at all rare and, as always, patience is a virtue when searching for one. Ignore the silly money ones on eBay and eventually you will find one at a reasonable price. Don't worry if it is a non-runner or has front steering damage as you will be junking those bits. You just need a body, chassis and wheels in good condition. Phil Smith occasionally has non-runners at cheaper prices. He doesn't list less than perfect cars on his website so you would need to email him and ask.

 2) Powersledge motor complete with all the relevant bits. These are easily found at swapmeets but make sure they are complete and running as spare parts are non existent. If all else fails then get a complete Panther or Europa Vee with body damage which sell for next to nothing.

3) New front axle or reuse original rear one with the crown gear removed.

4) “HAMA” beads - see later.

5) A household pin.

6) Roundels/number decals.

The only tools required are a very fine saw, a half round needle file, craft knife and wire cutters, although a Dremel will make the job easier.

Procedure
Remove the body and put to one side.
[attachment=3777]
Now remove the motor, rear axle and front guide/wheel assembly.
Compare underpan to photo. Cut with very fine saw and deburr. There is a groove just behind the original motor mount which is a guide for the cut. Once you have cut the chassis there is no going back, so take care.                           
[attachment=3779]
Offer up a pre-tested, strong running sledge motor - if tight fitting, open out the rear axle holder with a half round needle file. This should be done a bit at a time, as you require it to be a loose fit but not sloppy.
[attachment=3780]
Now to the upper body - remove front body screw pillar. I did this by simply snipping away with narrow wire cutters but a Dremel will also do the job.
[attachment=3781]
The powersledge rear axle is too long so replace or cut to the size of the Pink-Kar original then re-assemble body top to the short underpan and sledge motor. You will find the guide sliding bit has to be at its shortest, which puts the guide nut in-line with the radiator. You may find that the nut on the side of the motor just fouls the bodywork - in which case remove the tiniest sliver of plastic with a craft knife to enable a perfect fit.
[attachment=3787]
Remove the radiator (chrome bit and black insert), cut to accommodate the nut on top of the guide assembly. Reposition and glue back in place.

You now need some "HAMA" beads which are kiddies’ play items - they are normally used to make pictures and can be found here: LINK. Take a round needle file and make a half round slot in the two sticky out bits at the front of the body top. Take care here as there is not a great thickness of plastic at this point and over-enthusiasm in the filing department could lead to disaster. These beads hold the front axle and are glued into the slots you have just made - Araldite is best. They must, of course, be horizontal so insert an axle with wheels and check before gluing.  The beads come in all the Pink-Kar Bugatti colours so no painting is needed. Use two black beads as spacers on the front axle.
The front Pink-Kar wheels are a push fit to stub axles so will need to be drilled out to fit a standard axle. If the front wheels do not quite touch the track then you will need to remove a small piece of plastic from underneath the cockpit (driver) to enable the powersledge assembly to sit a little higher.

[attachment=3782]

A household pin, with its head cut off can be positioned at the front of the radiator and axle to reproduce the round bar at the front of the body.
[attachment=3785]


RS Slot Racing have Ortmann tyres (ref 28n) to fit the wheels which will give much better grip than the originals. Radius the edges slightly so the car can slide out on the twisty bits.
A small paint job completes the work - radiator badge, driver and cockpit tidy - plus a set of Scalextric roundels/numbers.
[attachment=3786]
The powersledge motor has been much maligned but a good one has a reasonable turn of speed and is perfectly suited to these cars. The finished version is a delight to drive but don't forget that the motor is ancient and keep the voltage down to 12 volts at the most.

And Finally............ if you like the result then the Pink-Kar Auto Union can also be modified in similar fashion.
[attachment=3783][attachment=3784]

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