<![CDATA[SlotRacer Forum - 3DP]]> https://slotracer.online/community/ Sat, 06 Jun 2026 13:04:05 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[3dp Pit Box]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5315 Mon, 27 Apr 2026 11:10:00 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5315
I posted my converted tool box in the general interest forum recently, as interested in what other people are using for conveying their cars. I have also been looking at the various pit boxes used by my local club members to see what they use and the good and bad points of each plus trawling the Net for ideas of what to buy. Conclusion I came too is that if I want to replace the current box then either spend £100+ on a dedicated Pit box or spend time converting a fishing tackle box.

And now for something completely different….

A design taking ideas from various pit boxes I have seen and creating a pit box as shown below. This was printed using a Bambu P1P in sections less than 250mm cubed limit of the P1P. The MK1 design swallowed 3+ reels of filament and came in at @3.5Kg empty. Size is 350mm wide, 194 deep and 330mm high. Construction is a 4 poster bed frame of Aluminium angle to which is bolted, the boxes, and shelving. This was built up as shown to see what can be done, what is viable in print time and how thick/thin sections need to be plus some design ideas i.e. rotary catches.

.jpg MK1 1.jpg Size: 62.89 KB  Downloads: 16


.jpg MK1 2.jpg Size: 81.07 KB  Downloads: 18


Some key take aways from this is it is too heavy, the fixed internal car trays are too restrictive on access, and the internal storage is greater than my needs.

Solution is the MK2 design where the width and height are reduced, (depth is greater) and the storage reduced. This can still take up to 12 off 1/32 scale cars or 9 off 1/24 and any combination of either. The cars now sit on removable drawers, controller goes in the top drawer not a side box, and the lids/flaps are now clamshell doors 60mm deep. The doors hold cleaning tape, electrical spray, tool drivers and some drawers for spares and lane marking tape rolls. Doors held closed by a sliding catch. This has shaved off 1.5kg so now 2Kg empty, so costing less, its quicker to print and more manageable to carry. Weight saving was achieved by volume reduction, combining the sub 250mm panels into panels going up to 300mm which then looses mating walls and fixings, and otherwise reduce wall section thickness compared to the MK1. The side boxes have been deleted, as well as the ally right angle sections which has reduced the screw fixings from 20 down to 10 off M5 Hex bolts & embedded nuts, and made the assembly quicker.

.jpg MK2 1.jpg Size: 58.43 KB  Downloads: 20


.jpg MK2 2.jpg Size: 171.84 KB  Downloads: 21


.jpg MK 3.jpg Size: 150.85 KB  Downloads: 22


To achieve the MK2 design I needed a bigger footprint printer so purchased a Sovol SV08 in the Easter sale for £382, this has a 350mm cubed footprint and for the 3dp geeks is based on the Voron 2.4 design. The Voron design comes from an open source group dedicated to developing high speed printers and Sovol have licenced a design from them. The SV08 is around 15-25% faster than my Bambu P1P (which is no slouch) which benefits printing larger parts.

Total print time using Egloo PLA + Rapid for the MK2 is @35 hours equivalent to printing 7 bodyshells so not a major issue and potential to reduce this further with a larger bore nozzle and wall thickness optimisation. Cost wise on the MK2 for filament, hardware, and printing is @£40.

Onto the MK3...

Cheers
John]]>
I posted my converted tool box in the general interest forum recently, as interested in what other people are using for conveying their cars. I have also been looking at the various pit boxes used by my local club members to see what they use and the good and bad points of each plus trawling the Net for ideas of what to buy. Conclusion I came too is that if I want to replace the current box then either spend £100+ on a dedicated Pit box or spend time converting a fishing tackle box.

And now for something completely different….

A design taking ideas from various pit boxes I have seen and creating a pit box as shown below. This was printed using a Bambu P1P in sections less than 250mm cubed limit of the P1P. The MK1 design swallowed 3+ reels of filament and came in at @3.5Kg empty. Size is 350mm wide, 194 deep and 330mm high. Construction is a 4 poster bed frame of Aluminium angle to which is bolted, the boxes, and shelving. This was built up as shown to see what can be done, what is viable in print time and how thick/thin sections need to be plus some design ideas i.e. rotary catches.

.jpg MK1 1.jpg Size: 62.89 KB  Downloads: 16


.jpg MK1 2.jpg Size: 81.07 KB  Downloads: 18


Some key take aways from this is it is too heavy, the fixed internal car trays are too restrictive on access, and the internal storage is greater than my needs.

Solution is the MK2 design where the width and height are reduced, (depth is greater) and the storage reduced. This can still take up to 12 off 1/32 scale cars or 9 off 1/24 and any combination of either. The cars now sit on removable drawers, controller goes in the top drawer not a side box, and the lids/flaps are now clamshell doors 60mm deep. The doors hold cleaning tape, electrical spray, tool drivers and some drawers for spares and lane marking tape rolls. Doors held closed by a sliding catch. This has shaved off 1.5kg so now 2Kg empty, so costing less, its quicker to print and more manageable to carry. Weight saving was achieved by volume reduction, combining the sub 250mm panels into panels going up to 300mm which then looses mating walls and fixings, and otherwise reduce wall section thickness compared to the MK1. The side boxes have been deleted, as well as the ally right angle sections which has reduced the screw fixings from 20 down to 10 off M5 Hex bolts & embedded nuts, and made the assembly quicker.

.jpg MK2 1.jpg Size: 58.43 KB  Downloads: 20


.jpg MK2 2.jpg Size: 171.84 KB  Downloads: 21


.jpg MK 3.jpg Size: 150.85 KB  Downloads: 22


To achieve the MK2 design I needed a bigger footprint printer so purchased a Sovol SV08 in the Easter sale for £382, this has a 350mm cubed footprint and for the 3dp geeks is based on the Voron 2.4 design. The Voron design comes from an open source group dedicated to developing high speed printers and Sovol have licenced a design from them. The SV08 is around 15-25% faster than my Bambu P1P (which is no slouch) which benefits printing larger parts.

Total print time using Egloo PLA + Rapid for the MK2 is @35 hours equivalent to printing 7 bodyshells so not a major issue and potential to reduce this further with a larger bore nozzle and wall thickness optimisation. Cost wise on the MK2 for filament, hardware, and printing is @£40.

Onto the MK3...

Cheers
John]]> <![CDATA[3D crossover bridge]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5211 Tue, 27 Jan 2026 21:59:00 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5211
An ex-club member is doing the track for us (he left to go back to RC cars/trucks/speed builds)

I was asked to draw up a two lane crossover bridge 1.1m long by 200mm wide and thought about it overnight with an idea to cut the slot seemingly simple enough...
...it was in reality.

It will be split into sections and 3D printed by the ex-club member who has a much larger printer than me.

.png Waynes crossover bridge.png Size: 298.89 KB  Downloads: 25


This is quite fortuitous as I'd intended doing a single lane hump section for our Rally stage but think it'll be much easier and quicker to make it from a long sheet of 3mm thick expanded foam formed into a humpy shape.

.png Slippery double hump.png Size: 286.68 KB  Downloads: 22


Either way, a nice little project]]>
An ex-club member is doing the track for us (he left to go back to RC cars/trucks/speed builds)

I was asked to draw up a two lane crossover bridge 1.1m long by 200mm wide and thought about it overnight with an idea to cut the slot seemingly simple enough...
...it was in reality.

It will be split into sections and 3D printed by the ex-club member who has a much larger printer than me.

.png Waynes crossover bridge.png Size: 298.89 KB  Downloads: 25


This is quite fortuitous as I'd intended doing a single lane hump section for our Rally stage but think it'll be much easier and quicker to make it from a long sheet of 3mm thick expanded foam formed into a humpy shape.

.png Slippery double hump.png Size: 286.68 KB  Downloads: 22


Either way, a nice little project]]> <![CDATA[resin print request]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5154 Sun, 04 Jan 2026 10:35:11 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5154 is there anyone out there who would be willing ( for a fee) , to resin print a 1/32 1950's Studebaker starliner ( commander ) body shell ?
[Image: 4676673637_e0a3c806cf_b.jpg]
i only have an FDM printer which i use for chassis etc , and dont want the hastle of removing the layer lines 
or i will happily print a few chassis , pods , billboards , barriers , etc etc , in exchange 
or even a 1/32 model kit would be just as good , but very rare
PM if your able 
thanks in advance
Kev]]> is there anyone out there who would be willing ( for a fee) , to resin print a 1/32 1950's Studebaker starliner ( commander ) body shell ?
[Image: 4676673637_e0a3c806cf_b.jpg]
i only have an FDM printer which i use for chassis etc , and dont want the hastle of removing the layer lines 
or i will happily print a few chassis , pods , billboards , barriers , etc etc , in exchange 
or even a 1/32 model kit would be just as good , but very rare
PM if your able 
thanks in advance
Kev]]> <![CDATA[Photo-to-3D]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5088 Wed, 26 Nov 2025 10:46:42 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5088
Go to a website, upload a photo, generate a 3D image, download as a 3D file... is this possible?

...of course it is

There's plenty of websites out there, good ones you have to pay for their best tools but for freebies this is what you can do.

Upload a photo, in this instance Stirling Moss

.jpg Stirling Moss.jpg Size: 15.3 KB  Downloads: 825


Go to one of the websites offering this service, at the moment I'm experimenting with https://hyper3d.ai/rodin

It takes a few minutes to generate a 3D image which will look slightly different as you'd expect but it's passably good.

I run the .stl file through Netfabb to repair the mesh and the end result is pretty good actually.

.png Untitled.png Size: 147.45 KB  Downloads: 25


I always fancied a Darrian T90GTR... no 3D file is available and I've even contacted Darrian with the possibility of a 3D file... with no luck although he liked the idea.

.jpg 584443917_10172978058335043_2003580537078088510_n.jpg Size: 761.53 KB  Downloads: 28


After hollowing the file to 1mm in a 3D printer slicer and removing the wheels and floor with simple blocks in 3D Builder... it looks similar enough to a Darrian T90GTR to be worthwhile printing.  The windows can either be cut out like a resin cast bodyshell or further work in 3D Builder to remove most of them that just needs tidying up.

.png Darrian T90GTR.png Size: 114.95 KB  Downloads: 22


These tools are here now and will only get better.
For a 3D file from a single photo these are remarkable.  These websites have the option to use multi view photos but you have to pay for that service.]]>
Go to a website, upload a photo, generate a 3D image, download as a 3D file... is this possible?

...of course it is

There's plenty of websites out there, good ones you have to pay for their best tools but for freebies this is what you can do.

Upload a photo, in this instance Stirling Moss

.jpg Stirling Moss.jpg Size: 15.3 KB  Downloads: 825


Go to one of the websites offering this service, at the moment I'm experimenting with https://hyper3d.ai/rodin

It takes a few minutes to generate a 3D image which will look slightly different as you'd expect but it's passably good.

I run the .stl file through Netfabb to repair the mesh and the end result is pretty good actually.

.png Untitled.png Size: 147.45 KB  Downloads: 25


I always fancied a Darrian T90GTR... no 3D file is available and I've even contacted Darrian with the possibility of a 3D file... with no luck although he liked the idea.

.jpg 584443917_10172978058335043_2003580537078088510_n.jpg Size: 761.53 KB  Downloads: 28


After hollowing the file to 1mm in a 3D printer slicer and removing the wheels and floor with simple blocks in 3D Builder... it looks similar enough to a Darrian T90GTR to be worthwhile printing.  The windows can either be cut out like a resin cast bodyshell or further work in 3D Builder to remove most of them that just needs tidying up.

.png Darrian T90GTR.png Size: 114.95 KB  Downloads: 22


These tools are here now and will only get better.
For a 3D file from a single photo these are remarkable.  These websites have the option to use multi view photos but you have to pay for that service.]]> <![CDATA[50% off sale for one day only...]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5054 Fri, 31 Oct 2025 13:43:53 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=5054 https://3dexport.com/search?search_keywords=slot+car]]> https://3dexport.com/search?search_keywords=slot+car]]> <![CDATA[CGTrader...up to 70% off Summer sale!!!!!]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4963 Wed, 27 Aug 2025 09:02:20 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4963 https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/car]]> https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/car]]> <![CDATA[50’s chevy truck body?]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4952 Mon, 25 Aug 2025 02:05:39 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4952 Would love a body in 1/32. 
Any idea/sources?
I’ve looked with no luck. 
Found a STL file but it looks solid- wheels and all ?
MJinTN
.jpeg IMG_6969.jpeg Size: 122.44 KB  Downloads: 49
]]> Would love a body in 1/32. 
Any idea/sources?
I’ve looked with no luck. 
Found a STL file but it looks solid- wheels and all ?
MJinTN
.jpeg IMG_6969.jpeg Size: 122.44 KB  Downloads: 49
]]> <![CDATA[3D Printable Shop 50% off sale]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4898 Fri, 08 Aug 2025 09:00:58 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4898
https://3dprintable.shop/

Cheers
           John]]>
https://3dprintable.shop/

Cheers
           John]]> <![CDATA[Harbor Freight Tool Box Front Panel Filler for Slot Car Box Working Surface]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4877 Thu, 24 Jul 2025 16:48:41 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4877
https://www.printables.com/model/1364391


.jpg IMG20250724070458.jpg Size: 2.71 MB  Downloads: 65
]]>
https://www.printables.com/model/1364391


.jpg IMG20250724070458.jpg Size: 2.71 MB  Downloads: 65
]]> <![CDATA[Printer#2]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4853 Fri, 27 Jun 2025 09:50:18 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4853
As I approach another railway build where I will be wanting more stuff printing, I thought I should invest in a new one. At first I was going to stick with Creality despite the short lifespan of my unit, but after ordering an Ender V3 , I had my eyes opened to Bambu. After some research I decided to cancel the Creality, and ordered a Bambu A1 in their anniversary sale, along with a 0.2 and 0.8 hot end. price was comparable to what the Ender 3 cost me 2 years ago.

It arrived yesterday so assembly and a few ready made prints to start, and then a couple of my own designs.
I am blown away by how much things have moved on in 2 years !
I expected a little faster , but this is crazy watching it fly around, and add to that all the convenience, sending files over wi-fi to the printer direct from my PC, firmware updates likewise, and the prints, despite the speed, are far crisper. Colour me impressed with Bambu  Bigsmile

The assembly was a little more involved than the Ender was, but all clearly explained (read instructions as most of the you-tube videos are a little outdated ... they have changed one or 2 bits around since the model was initially released). But as far as a "Plug and Play" printer is concerned - for someone like me that wants the print to be the goal, not tinkering and tweaking to get it, it is perfect. 
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend to someone who wants their first printer, or indeed to add to their farm !

I only bought the single filament input version as its all i need, but they also do a 4 colour/filament spool version.]]>
As I approach another railway build where I will be wanting more stuff printing, I thought I should invest in a new one. At first I was going to stick with Creality despite the short lifespan of my unit, but after ordering an Ender V3 , I had my eyes opened to Bambu. After some research I decided to cancel the Creality, and ordered a Bambu A1 in their anniversary sale, along with a 0.2 and 0.8 hot end. price was comparable to what the Ender 3 cost me 2 years ago.

It arrived yesterday so assembly and a few ready made prints to start, and then a couple of my own designs.
I am blown away by how much things have moved on in 2 years !
I expected a little faster , but this is crazy watching it fly around, and add to that all the convenience, sending files over wi-fi to the printer direct from my PC, firmware updates likewise, and the prints, despite the speed, are far crisper. Colour me impressed with Bambu  Bigsmile

The assembly was a little more involved than the Ender was, but all clearly explained (read instructions as most of the you-tube videos are a little outdated ... they have changed one or 2 bits around since the model was initially released). But as far as a "Plug and Play" printer is concerned - for someone like me that wants the print to be the goal, not tinkering and tweaking to get it, it is perfect. 
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend to someone who wants their first printer, or indeed to add to their farm !

I only bought the single filament input version as its all i need, but they also do a 4 colour/filament spool version.]]> <![CDATA[3D printed Ferrari...with a 3D pen]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4852 Wed, 25 Jun 2025 23:07:21 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4852
]]>
]]> <![CDATA[Mr Slot Car Corvette C1 3dp pod]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4843 Wed, 11 Jun 2025 21:03:09 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4843
I thought I would start a separate thread under 3dp for the C1, as the car has stimulated a lot of discussion elsewhere on the pros and cons of this particular car and I wanted to highlight a 3dp modification i.e. a Flat 6 motor pod.

.jpg Corvette C 1 1.jpg Size: 54.92 KB  Downloads: 65


My 4ps worth on the original car itself is that it has several contradictions, i.e. an American V8 sports car with a FF050 motor, a wood guide and a magnet. The shell is crisply moulded and light at 19 grms, plus is painted/decaled to a reasonable standard. Not overly fussed on the accuracy of the shell and its compromises, and can live with the toy like driver figure, so overall, is fine for club racing. The wheels are all alloy with some nice period inserts and will take slightly bigger rubber. My local club’s Goodwood pre67 front engined sports car class allows rubber up to 10mm wide and motors either Flat6 or Boxers up to 22.5K rpm or S cans to 25K, so the supplied FF050 18K motor has to go. Interested in the chassis design/body mounting so my 1st thought was to shoehorn a Flat 6 (insufficient depth for a Boxer unless the interior comes out) into the existing chassis in a new 3dp pod and perhaps make a complete new chassis with interior replacement later on to compare the two.

.jpg Corvette C 1 2.jpg Size: 93.55 KB  Downloads: 69


Several design and print iterations later I have a Flat 6 motor pod that fits into the chassis as shown. I put outriggers more towards the rear so as to enable M2 6mm grub screws to act as movement limits instead of using the set height plastic inserts under the arms on the original pod. Added a spring to the rear pod fixing and retained the O ring to the front to cope with the club Ninco track. The motor is retained by 2 screws to the rear and a retaining hoop forward. The rear axle now runs in Slot It spherical bearings as this gives a stronger support to the axle for a printed pod.

.jpg Corvette C 1 3.jpg Size: 147.79 KB  Downloads: 61


Printing wise I used custom supports to cope with the need to support the pod overhanging the chassis on the sides and each end.

Other modifications are replacing the front wheels/tyres & rear wheels/tyres with PCS wheels and 10mm tyres, 9:25 gearing again using a 1mm offset cog. The wood guide is replaced with a Scaleauto plastic track one, which is a drop in fit and the front axle raised and ground down tyres to get the guide to sit correctly. The body sits on the original steel plates with the O rings now above the steel plates not under to drop the shell down.

Didn’t bother much with testing the original chassis setup, but went straight to the modifications so I can club race. The car handles well (on home Carrera track) with the low slung heavy chassis plate and the Flat 6 R 22K rpm motor now giving it respectable performance. Handling compared to my other Goodwood cars like the Cheetah is good as it runs smoothly and predictably into the bend with some body movement evident and digs in when accelerating out

Will see how competitive this is at the next Goodwood meeting and whether a complete 3dp chassis is warranted.

Cheers
John]]>
I thought I would start a separate thread under 3dp for the C1, as the car has stimulated a lot of discussion elsewhere on the pros and cons of this particular car and I wanted to highlight a 3dp modification i.e. a Flat 6 motor pod.

.jpg Corvette C 1 1.jpg Size: 54.92 KB  Downloads: 65


My 4ps worth on the original car itself is that it has several contradictions, i.e. an American V8 sports car with a FF050 motor, a wood guide and a magnet. The shell is crisply moulded and light at 19 grms, plus is painted/decaled to a reasonable standard. Not overly fussed on the accuracy of the shell and its compromises, and can live with the toy like driver figure, so overall, is fine for club racing. The wheels are all alloy with some nice period inserts and will take slightly bigger rubber. My local club’s Goodwood pre67 front engined sports car class allows rubber up to 10mm wide and motors either Flat6 or Boxers up to 22.5K rpm or S cans to 25K, so the supplied FF050 18K motor has to go. Interested in the chassis design/body mounting so my 1st thought was to shoehorn a Flat 6 (insufficient depth for a Boxer unless the interior comes out) into the existing chassis in a new 3dp pod and perhaps make a complete new chassis with interior replacement later on to compare the two.

.jpg Corvette C 1 2.jpg Size: 93.55 KB  Downloads: 69


Several design and print iterations later I have a Flat 6 motor pod that fits into the chassis as shown. I put outriggers more towards the rear so as to enable M2 6mm grub screws to act as movement limits instead of using the set height plastic inserts under the arms on the original pod. Added a spring to the rear pod fixing and retained the O ring to the front to cope with the club Ninco track. The motor is retained by 2 screws to the rear and a retaining hoop forward. The rear axle now runs in Slot It spherical bearings as this gives a stronger support to the axle for a printed pod.

.jpg Corvette C 1 3.jpg Size: 147.79 KB  Downloads: 61


Printing wise I used custom supports to cope with the need to support the pod overhanging the chassis on the sides and each end.

Other modifications are replacing the front wheels/tyres & rear wheels/tyres with PCS wheels and 10mm tyres, 9:25 gearing again using a 1mm offset cog. The wood guide is replaced with a Scaleauto plastic track one, which is a drop in fit and the front axle raised and ground down tyres to get the guide to sit correctly. The body sits on the original steel plates with the O rings now above the steel plates not under to drop the shell down.

Didn’t bother much with testing the original chassis setup, but went straight to the modifications so I can club race. The car handles well (on home Carrera track) with the low slung heavy chassis plate and the Flat 6 R 22K rpm motor now giving it respectable performance. Handling compared to my other Goodwood cars like the Cheetah is good as it runs smoothly and predictably into the bend with some body movement evident and digs in when accelerating out

Will see how competitive this is at the next Goodwood meeting and whether a complete 3dp chassis is warranted.

Cheers
John]]> <![CDATA[Australian V8 Wings]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4832 Sun, 25 May 2025 19:50:52 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4832 Australian V8 wing set

Over the last few years I have created and printed various wings for the Australian V8 cars mostly for a local club that races the V8s. Below is this collection in two sets of STL files containing 10 off wings for various V8 cars as identified below.

.jpg Promo set 1 and 2.jpg Size: 103.24 KB  Downloads: 77


There is no support structures in the files just the wings themselves, so can be adapted for either resin or FDM filament printers as required.


For FDM printing most of the files will sit flat on the bed using the trailing wing edge, the curved wings will need supports added in the slicer or custom supports in CAD.


Cheers
John

.stl Australian V8 Wing set 2.stl Size: 2.06 MB  Downloads: 13


.stl Australian V8 Wing set 1.stl Size: 2.57 MB  Downloads: 9
]]> Australian V8 wing set

Over the last few years I have created and printed various wings for the Australian V8 cars mostly for a local club that races the V8s. Below is this collection in two sets of STL files containing 10 off wings for various V8 cars as identified below.

.jpg Promo set 1 and 2.jpg Size: 103.24 KB  Downloads: 77


There is no support structures in the files just the wings themselves, so can be adapted for either resin or FDM filament printers as required.


For FDM printing most of the files will sit flat on the bed using the trailing wing edge, the curved wings will need supports added in the slicer or custom supports in CAD.


Cheers
John

.stl Australian V8 Wing set 2.stl Size: 2.06 MB  Downloads: 13


.stl Australian V8 Wing set 1.stl Size: 2.57 MB  Downloads: 9
]]> <![CDATA[Honda NSX Models available]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4816 Sun, 04 May 2025 05:47:55 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4816
my club asked me to start work on a car body to be used in one make series for next year.  They use the Plafit A132 chassis and again looking for as boddy it can bolt straight onto.  They wanted to use the Honda NSX and in SuperGT style.  So I went on to Thingiverse, found a suitable starting model and have spent some time in coverting it.

You can find the first step of conversion here in making a slot car friendly body for the road car.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7028284

And then after some efforts, the first attempt for the SuperGT style body.  This is not an exact version of a SuperGT car, more of in the style of SuperGT :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7028288


There will probably be changes to this as testing is done and I can lay my hands on more reference material.  It's a start.]]>
my club asked me to start work on a car body to be used in one make series for next year.  They use the Plafit A132 chassis and again looking for as boddy it can bolt straight onto.  They wanted to use the Honda NSX and in SuperGT style.  So I went on to Thingiverse, found a suitable starting model and have spent some time in coverting it.

You can find the first step of conversion here in making a slot car friendly body for the road car.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7028284

And then after some efforts, the first attempt for the SuperGT style body.  This is not an exact version of a SuperGT car, more of in the style of SuperGT :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7028288


There will probably be changes to this as testing is done and I can lay my hands on more reference material.  It's a start.]]> <![CDATA[3d Scanning]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4813 Thu, 01 May 2025 09:58:45 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4813  3D Scanning       
  
.jpg IMG_4925.JPG Size: 3.23 MB  Downloads: 80
  Revopoint 3d scanner system

From originally creating my own chassis’ using CAD for 3d printing, I wanted to move into creating bodyshells and realised, that although certain bodyshells are within my ability to create in CAD i.e. the CAN AM cars of the cheese dish variety, the 1950s cars like the Jaguars and Ferraris are not. These 1950-60s sports cars with compound curves in 3 planes, are a lot harder to replicate in CAD and very time consuming/frustrating to derive the curves correctly.

Hard to create
.png AM DBR4 Z.png Size: 394.65 KB  Downloads: 70
                AS DBR4Z

Easier to create
 
.jpg Wolf.jpg Size: 57.38 KB  Downloads: 75
              Wolf

Thinking that a 3d scanner would shortcut this (if you have a shell to scan), I found however the level of capability v price point (£1000+) was out of reach five or so years ago. More recently there was a new range of scanners on the market, from Revopoint, Creality and others and the price point had tumbled (sub £500). After reading reviews and watching Youtube reviews I decided to take the plunge and bought a Revopoint Mini in an Amazon Black Friday sale.

The scanner comes as shown with the scanner, tripod and turntable, the software is downloaded from the Revopoint site and consists of the scanner software and a basic editor of completed scans. The editor software will output in multiple formats and has some useful features to weld meshes, trim, smooth, fill holes and resize the file.

The Revopoint scanner uses a laser rather than an infra red beam, and claimed accuracy is down to 0.05mm or 0.02mm for the newer models. Models are placed on the turntable and the scan takes @ 2-3minutes (turntable speed is adjustable), then repeated at a different angle to try and capture as much detail as possible.

So what models can the Revopoint Mini do…

Well it can scan bodyshells from 1/43 to 1/24 just, as cars longer than 150mm progressively leads to focus and then quality issues, or requires multiple scans and stitching or complex sectioning.

To illustrate,

 
.jpg IMG_5345.JPG Size: 2.7 MB  Downloads: 107
                         die-cast Merc

This was a £2 1/32 scale die-cast from the local toy fair, stripped down and sprayed matt white.

 
.jpg Merc 300 scan.jpg Size: 63.41 KB  Downloads: 79
                         Scanned image

Then,

 
.jpg Merc 300SLS cleaned up.jpg Size: 43.97 KB  Downloads: 68
                         Cleaned up in Studio then Blender.

after some CAD work we have a 1957 Mercedes racer.

 
.jpg Merc 300SLS final.jpg Size: 130.3 KB  Downloads: 82
                             

And finally printed

.jpg IMG_5153.JPG Size: 3.02 MB  Downloads: 95


Scalextric TR7 scan

.jpg TR7 scan.jpg Size: 43.96 KB  Downloads: 84


And again after clean up and some CAD work we have a TR8 IMSA

.jpg TR7 1.jpg Size: 76.63 KB  Downloads: 81
                  IMSA TR8

The end result, below is the printed TR8 alongside an IMSA version of the Datsun 260 using the same technique.

.jpg TR8 Datsun 260 crop.jpg Size: 93.52 KB  Downloads: 82
                  Datsun & TR8 printed

Scanning can be less than perfect and hence the amount of work then involved to get a usable shell from these is a coin toss. Sometimes it is just better to bin the scan and start again as it can take hours using a mesh editor like Blender to clean up, re-mesh, thicken and correct mesh errors, such that it will drop into the CAD program to have new parts blended in i.e. arches or sections removed to modify the front/rear etc.

'Side scan sonar' F1 & Datsun i.e. less than desirable scans

.jpg F1 mess 2.jpg Size: 26.72 KB  Downloads: 81


.jpg Datsun mess.jpg Size: 71.24 KB  Downloads: 85


To get good scan results requires patience, practice and research into techniques i.e. the best results I found were obtained by spraying the bodies matt white (Games workshop white primer spray works well) which was a lot cheaper and more consistent than the £30 can of special scanning spray I tried. Program scan settings, model preparation, ambient light, turntable speed, scan distance are all critical hence the practice and research to get viable results.

Secondly it is essential to have software for mesh editing and correction, such as Blender and Meshmixer to complement the scanner & CAD software plus the knowledge on how to use them to turn a scanned object into a shell.

Fundamentality what it doesn’t do, is create a bodyshell file that will go straight to print via the slicer software but it will with practice give you a working outline that can be turned with the right software and some hours of work into a viable shell.

Cheers
John]]>  3D Scanning       
  
.jpg IMG_4925.JPG Size: 3.23 MB  Downloads: 80
  Revopoint 3d scanner system

From originally creating my own chassis’ using CAD for 3d printing, I wanted to move into creating bodyshells and realised, that although certain bodyshells are within my ability to create in CAD i.e. the CAN AM cars of the cheese dish variety, the 1950s cars like the Jaguars and Ferraris are not. These 1950-60s sports cars with compound curves in 3 planes, are a lot harder to replicate in CAD and very time consuming/frustrating to derive the curves correctly.

Hard to create
.png AM DBR4 Z.png Size: 394.65 KB  Downloads: 70
                AS DBR4Z

Easier to create
 
.jpg Wolf.jpg Size: 57.38 KB  Downloads: 75
              Wolf

Thinking that a 3d scanner would shortcut this (if you have a shell to scan), I found however the level of capability v price point (£1000+) was out of reach five or so years ago. More recently there was a new range of scanners on the market, from Revopoint, Creality and others and the price point had tumbled (sub £500). After reading reviews and watching Youtube reviews I decided to take the plunge and bought a Revopoint Mini in an Amazon Black Friday sale.

The scanner comes as shown with the scanner, tripod and turntable, the software is downloaded from the Revopoint site and consists of the scanner software and a basic editor of completed scans. The editor software will output in multiple formats and has some useful features to weld meshes, trim, smooth, fill holes and resize the file.

The Revopoint scanner uses a laser rather than an infra red beam, and claimed accuracy is down to 0.05mm or 0.02mm for the newer models. Models are placed on the turntable and the scan takes @ 2-3minutes (turntable speed is adjustable), then repeated at a different angle to try and capture as much detail as possible.

So what models can the Revopoint Mini do…

Well it can scan bodyshells from 1/43 to 1/24 just, as cars longer than 150mm progressively leads to focus and then quality issues, or requires multiple scans and stitching or complex sectioning.

To illustrate,

 
.jpg IMG_5345.JPG Size: 2.7 MB  Downloads: 107
                         die-cast Merc

This was a £2 1/32 scale die-cast from the local toy fair, stripped down and sprayed matt white.

 
.jpg Merc 300 scan.jpg Size: 63.41 KB  Downloads: 79
                         Scanned image

Then,

 
.jpg Merc 300SLS cleaned up.jpg Size: 43.97 KB  Downloads: 68
                         Cleaned up in Studio then Blender.

after some CAD work we have a 1957 Mercedes racer.

 
.jpg Merc 300SLS final.jpg Size: 130.3 KB  Downloads: 82
                             

And finally printed

.jpg IMG_5153.JPG Size: 3.02 MB  Downloads: 95


Scalextric TR7 scan

.jpg TR7 scan.jpg Size: 43.96 KB  Downloads: 84


And again after clean up and some CAD work we have a TR8 IMSA

.jpg TR7 1.jpg Size: 76.63 KB  Downloads: 81
                  IMSA TR8

The end result, below is the printed TR8 alongside an IMSA version of the Datsun 260 using the same technique.

.jpg TR8 Datsun 260 crop.jpg Size: 93.52 KB  Downloads: 82
                  Datsun & TR8 printed

Scanning can be less than perfect and hence the amount of work then involved to get a usable shell from these is a coin toss. Sometimes it is just better to bin the scan and start again as it can take hours using a mesh editor like Blender to clean up, re-mesh, thicken and correct mesh errors, such that it will drop into the CAD program to have new parts blended in i.e. arches or sections removed to modify the front/rear etc.

'Side scan sonar' F1 & Datsun i.e. less than desirable scans

.jpg F1 mess 2.jpg Size: 26.72 KB  Downloads: 81


.jpg Datsun mess.jpg Size: 71.24 KB  Downloads: 85


To get good scan results requires patience, practice and research into techniques i.e. the best results I found were obtained by spraying the bodies matt white (Games workshop white primer spray works well) which was a lot cheaper and more consistent than the £30 can of special scanning spray I tried. Program scan settings, model preparation, ambient light, turntable speed, scan distance are all critical hence the practice and research to get viable results.

Secondly it is essential to have software for mesh editing and correction, such as Blender and Meshmixer to complement the scanner & CAD software plus the knowledge on how to use them to turn a scanned object into a shell.

Fundamentality what it doesn’t do, is create a bodyshell file that will go straight to print via the slicer software but it will with practice give you a working outline that can be turned with the right software and some hours of work into a viable shell.

Cheers
John]]> <![CDATA[Twofer Motor Magnet & Torque Tester]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4787 Sun, 23 Mar 2025 10:47:19 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4787
Motor magnet attraction jig
.jpg Magnet test 1.jpg Size: 109 KB  Downloads: 106


Motor torque jig
.jpg Torque tester 1.jpg Size: 103.49 KB  Downloads: 98


For racing use to find which motors have greater magnet traction on plastic tracks I created a version of the motor magnet attraction tester, permutations of which have been around for some years. This technique although not delivering industry specification accuracy is sufficient to compare motors and motors mounted in cars.

My version uses a set of digital scales from Amazon (Criacr Digital Pocket Scales, 500g High-Precision Kitchen Scales) with a claimed accuracy of 0.01grms which in reality is probably more like 0.1grms but in practice looking for say 0.5grm differences then not a problem. The jig is sized to take this set of scales at 106 x 127 x 19mm.

The scales sit on the base plate over which is a bridge piece that takes a steel shim to act as the attractor plate and over that but resting its 4 feet on the scales are the motor pods or the car cradle. The pods, cradle, cars and motors are placed on the scales away from the bridge to zero or Tare, then the motor is placed in the cradle over the attractor plate such that the magnet attraction can be directly measured as the motor magnets pull the car/cradle downwards applying force to the scales.

Included is 2 off motor holders one for the boxer type (or S can) motor the other for the Flat 6 type so both are presented to the scales at the same height from the scales to underside of motor. There is also a tray to present a car as well for club racing checking use, and has the car sitting on its tyres so ground clearance and magnet traction can be checked against a set limit. Putting wheel cut outs in this would take out the track clearance aspect.

Built this up as shown and thought why not add a motor torque test function as well, and decided it was easier to design a new bridge piece than try and dual function the existing one, hence the 2nd set of files using the same base. The motor sits in the bridge and is clamped down, then the disc is fixed to the motor shaft and held with 1-2 grub screws. Depending on filament used this may or may not take a thread that lasts so have included a 2nd disc which can be glued to a cog that has grub screw fixing for more permanence. The disc takes the 3 pusher pieces at 120 degrees at 1cm from the motor axis so that the motor torque can be checked in 3 positions then averaged.

Methodology for testing is to clamp the motor, align one pusher to the scales, zero the scales then apply 4 volts momentarily to the motor. This is done 3 times at 120 degrees and then averaged and the result multiplied by 3 to equate to 12 volts operation. The disc can be rotated 60 degrees or the pushers repositioned around the disc, then the testing carried again to get 6 readings for greater accuracy, but found in practice taking the 3 readings was sufficient. This setup gives a good equation to manufacturers figures once calculated.

Note: this will need a minimum of a 5A power supply for testing hard bodied motors otherwise the PSU will not supply sufficient power to allow the motor to generate maximum torque.

STL files content

Printed in PLA+ at 0.16mm layer and 40% fill.

.jpg Motor magnet traction tester.jpg Size: 87.58 KB  Downloads: 89


.jpg Motor torque test 3.jpg Size: 89.27 KB  Downloads: 102



Cheers 
             John
.stl Magnet tester 7.stl Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 3

.stl Torque tester 3.stl Size: 1.56 MB  Downloads: 3
]]>
Motor magnet attraction jig
.jpg Magnet test 1.jpg Size: 109 KB  Downloads: 106


Motor torque jig
.jpg Torque tester 1.jpg Size: 103.49 KB  Downloads: 98


For racing use to find which motors have greater magnet traction on plastic tracks I created a version of the motor magnet attraction tester, permutations of which have been around for some years. This technique although not delivering industry specification accuracy is sufficient to compare motors and motors mounted in cars.

My version uses a set of digital scales from Amazon (Criacr Digital Pocket Scales, 500g High-Precision Kitchen Scales) with a claimed accuracy of 0.01grms which in reality is probably more like 0.1grms but in practice looking for say 0.5grm differences then not a problem. The jig is sized to take this set of scales at 106 x 127 x 19mm.

The scales sit on the base plate over which is a bridge piece that takes a steel shim to act as the attractor plate and over that but resting its 4 feet on the scales are the motor pods or the car cradle. The pods, cradle, cars and motors are placed on the scales away from the bridge to zero or Tare, then the motor is placed in the cradle over the attractor plate such that the magnet attraction can be directly measured as the motor magnets pull the car/cradle downwards applying force to the scales.

Included is 2 off motor holders one for the boxer type (or S can) motor the other for the Flat 6 type so both are presented to the scales at the same height from the scales to underside of motor. There is also a tray to present a car as well for club racing checking use, and has the car sitting on its tyres so ground clearance and magnet traction can be checked against a set limit. Putting wheel cut outs in this would take out the track clearance aspect.

Built this up as shown and thought why not add a motor torque test function as well, and decided it was easier to design a new bridge piece than try and dual function the existing one, hence the 2nd set of files using the same base. The motor sits in the bridge and is clamped down, then the disc is fixed to the motor shaft and held with 1-2 grub screws. Depending on filament used this may or may not take a thread that lasts so have included a 2nd disc which can be glued to a cog that has grub screw fixing for more permanence. The disc takes the 3 pusher pieces at 120 degrees at 1cm from the motor axis so that the motor torque can be checked in 3 positions then averaged.

Methodology for testing is to clamp the motor, align one pusher to the scales, zero the scales then apply 4 volts momentarily to the motor. This is done 3 times at 120 degrees and then averaged and the result multiplied by 3 to equate to 12 volts operation. The disc can be rotated 60 degrees or the pushers repositioned around the disc, then the testing carried again to get 6 readings for greater accuracy, but found in practice taking the 3 readings was sufficient. This setup gives a good equation to manufacturers figures once calculated.

Note: this will need a minimum of a 5A power supply for testing hard bodied motors otherwise the PSU will not supply sufficient power to allow the motor to generate maximum torque.

STL files content

Printed in PLA+ at 0.16mm layer and 40% fill.

.jpg Motor magnet traction tester.jpg Size: 87.58 KB  Downloads: 89


.jpg Motor torque test 3.jpg Size: 89.27 KB  Downloads: 102



Cheers 
             John
.stl Magnet tester 7.stl Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 3

.stl Torque tester 3.stl Size: 1.56 MB  Downloads: 3
]]> <![CDATA[Convert ARC Air controller to ARC Pro/oXigen with this 3DP button]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4786 Fri, 21 Mar 2025 15:30:32 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4786
If you have a Scalextric ARC Air controller that you want to use as an ARC Pro or slot-it oXigen digital controller, but can't get the slot-it button for it since Shapeways got all shaken up, here's my version. It should print easily in any material on any 3d printer.

.jpg IMG20250320211723.jpg Size: 3.28 MB  Downloads: 72
 

https://www.printables.com/model/1237039]]>
If you have a Scalextric ARC Air controller that you want to use as an ARC Pro or slot-it oXigen digital controller, but can't get the slot-it button for it since Shapeways got all shaken up, here's my version. It should print easily in any material on any 3d printer.

.jpg IMG20250320211723.jpg Size: 3.28 MB  Downloads: 72
 

https://www.printables.com/model/1237039]]> <![CDATA[Koenigsegg Agera Model Available]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4755 Fri, 14 Feb 2025 15:09:19 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4755 as some of you know, I had been working on a model of the Agera for our club and printed a bunch of bodies for members.  This progressed a bit from the initial version which had been printed in shall we say a rather brittle resin, to something that can take the abuse a bit more.  To mark the difference I changed it to more of a wide-body and cleaned it up some.

I made a short video on the method I used to create the 3D model in case anyone finds it useful.  I am no expert in Blender and am sure there can be better ways, but the few steps used were economical for me to learn and could be used to make the model quickly.



Link to the Thingiverse file in the description and also here Agera Widebody  Although be great if you can watch the video and leave a like too Bigsmile

My paint jobs are just passable, but luckily one of the club members is donating his time to paint the bodies for some members.


.jpg 1739260768374.jpg Size: 194.08 KB  Downloads: 75


The cars are now used in a one-make race every 3 months using the Plafit A132 chassis.]]> as some of you know, I had been working on a model of the Agera for our club and printed a bunch of bodies for members.  This progressed a bit from the initial version which had been printed in shall we say a rather brittle resin, to something that can take the abuse a bit more.  To mark the difference I changed it to more of a wide-body and cleaned it up some.

I made a short video on the method I used to create the 3D model in case anyone finds it useful.  I am no expert in Blender and am sure there can be better ways, but the few steps used were economical for me to learn and could be used to make the model quickly.



Link to the Thingiverse file in the description and also here Agera Widebody  Although be great if you can watch the video and leave a like too Bigsmile

My paint jobs are just passable, but luckily one of the club members is donating his time to paint the bodies for some members.


.jpg 1739260768374.jpg Size: 194.08 KB  Downloads: 75


The cars are now used in a one-make race every 3 months using the Plafit A132 chassis.]]> <![CDATA[3D Gaussian Splatting...the new 3D scanning?]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4638 Wed, 04 Dec 2024 19:53:47 +0000 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4638


]]>


]]> <![CDATA[Experiences with clear resin?]]> https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4507 Tue, 10 Sep 2024 13:18:07 +0100 https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=4507 I just got some Elegoo transparent resin in to try printing with the windows left in.  After coating with a clear topcoat the result does not look too bad to my old eyes.  Hopefully the coating will help against yellowing over time.

Going to let this one get some sunlight while I tweek the model a bit and fix my errors.

.jpg IMG01301~2.jpg Size: 173.48 KB  Downloads: 111
]]> I just got some Elegoo transparent resin in to try printing with the windows left in.  After coating with a clear topcoat the result does not look too bad to my old eyes.  Hopefully the coating will help against yellowing over time.

Going to let this one get some sunlight while I tweek the model a bit and fix my errors.

.jpg IMG01301~2.jpg Size: 173.48 KB  Downloads: 111
]]>