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Ford GT LM
#31

Lovely story telling! 

Always looking to learn, and maybe I missed it somewhere, but what is that c-shaped bracket sitting just in front of the digital chip?
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#32

OK...read it all again and I see now it is a bracket that converts the motor mount to a single fixing at the front.
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#33

How fast thing can change, wrote this only 2 weeks ago, not really in the mood for a rewrite...so 

Taking stock, clearing out the cobwebs.
So we'll be racing the Ford again this year @ Le Mans, in just a bit more than 3 weeks..... Time to take stock and clear out the cobwebs.
Because although the Ford has served us well last year with good results, there's always room for improvement.
 
After the 2019 Le Mans 24hrs we had the following bullit list with attention points.
  • Rear Wing kept coming off

  • Bit of overweight.

  • Lights, Hard to spot the car from the rear specially through Dunlop/'S de la Foret/Tetre Rouge section.

  • Motor ran hot: Shorter gearing, Improve cooling, 

  • 0,75 offset gave to little magnatraction compared to competition (that ran 1,0 offset pods)

  • Frontaxle too short, Front axle stuck solid after a crash as right wheel moved in on Axle.
Some of the items on the bullet list have been taken care of and race proven during the rest of the 2019/20 races (like the rubber wingsupports and the 1,0 offset pod).
 
Clearing out the cobwebs
So the first thing I did to the Ford after last sunday's test was to give her a good clean up and inspect the body.
No structural damage after one year of racing, few scratches on the nose, striping on the roof showing some wear, no cracks, damage etc etc.  
The Bison Tix neoprene glue really worked well and held all parts together. In some area's I had applied it exessively, or just poured it on in a quick race repair, so I set out to remove some of it. 
Tough as hell and still flexible even afyter a year, meaning that with the right amount of applied force...it comes of clean without leaving a mark on the body.
I cases where the Neoprene glue's bond feels stronger than the part you want to remove it from...a Q-tip dabbed in cleaning petrol will soften the glue...but...do check if the underlying surface can handle the Cleanig petrol.
[Image: planB2_01.png]

On the left the body after clean up, as I wrote a bit overweight...by DISCA 2019 standard, but for Suzuka we actually needed to add 0,7gr balast to comply with the 2020 rules.
On the right the body with the Z-machine lightkit and interior (carefully) removed. Cleaned and Polished the windows on the inside as lots of tyre gunk and debris had assembled there.

[Image: planB2_02.png]

Removing excess glue and a tiny bit of redundant plastic in the roof dropped the body weight by 0,1gr to 16,1gr sans lightkit and interior.
Every bit counts as to address bullit point 2 & 3 well be adding more lights to the body. At lest twice the weight of what's on the scale in the middle.

So that's at least 0,4 gram we need to find, and on the right scale is the most likely place we might reclaim that weight. Shorter, lighter (and more flexible) wires and trimming the taillight lenses. 
Replacing the capacitor for a lighter version (from slot.it) alone should give us 0,4gr, but need to test if the Z-machine chip will still work with the lower capacity of the slot.it goldcap. (z-machine 0,33f, Slot.it 0,1f)

Indentification lights, Friend or Foe

[Image: planB2_04a.png]
Well this the one item where despite our best efforts our Ford seriously lacked "1/32nd realism" because at Le Mans there's no mistaking the Fords at night.... from any angle.
(here green but identification color for the #68/#18 is red) Our 1/32nd Ford was hard to spot from the rear specially through Dunlop/'S de la Foret/Tetre Rouge section. 

Our aim not to overdo these identification lights (not wanting the disco light set-up as ran by Ditslot in 2018) backfired as the leds we ran were not visible enough.
So in the picture below you can see  the test set-up for the 2020 identification lights. Will mount these high-up underneath the Ford "wings" but will need to black out the inner surface so the led won't shine trhough the plastic.
The mini Z-machine brake leds give a nice diffuse light.
 [Image: planB2_05.png]

 
Actually all Z-machine leds give of diffuse light, while that's good for most lights its not I.m.o. for the headlights.
Although the Ford with its tripple headlights was easilly recognisable from the front...I wanted to have light beams in front of the car.
So instead of the regular "diffuse" smd leds, "old School" 1,8mmø leds with clear lensses (see bottom right) will be mounted in the foglights. 

Still working on the wiring plan, the plan is to have the headlights connected to the Z-machine chip fed by the motor wires and feed the foglights from the O2 chip.
This way I can give the foglights a bit more juice (3v on/off switchable) ...
The O2 chip will also be used to light up the  numbershields
[Image: planB2_06.png]

 
Lots of paint
Say what you like off Scalex cars, but their paint jobs are meant to last, 48 hrs of hard racing and hardly a scratch on the Ford...but that needed to change.
As the only way I would be able to get any light to the numbershields required digging in deep and carefully scratch away the paint.
Did not do this free hand off course, masked of the body around the shield and started scraping away the paint...carefully,  layer by layer

[Image: planB2_03.png]
As you can see picture right, there were quite a lot of them, The tamponed print, then the dark metallic blue, then a silver layer, then metallic red and then finally bare white plastic.
So no masking, no extra's, just a bit of elbow grease, two LED's (might spread them further apart) and a paper sticker (decal or vinyl would do the same job, maybe even better)
More info on the SMD led's I used can be found here

[Image: planB2_04.png]


to be continued:

With kind regards
Tamar
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