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SVworkz - Oreca07 - Team Signature (SPA 2019)

Hello, to all readers!

The 1/32 slotcar world is getting a brand new model really soon!!!
And it will be a young LMP car, being the Oreca07 as mentioned in the topics title.

The introduction

We are building this pre-production model, to become the WEC LMP2 car from Team Signature (better known as Alpine A470) as raced at SPA 2019.
"We" being Steven Verelst (3D designer), Tamar Nelwan (Decal Designer and more) and myself (Just the guy that hopefully gets it all together at the end,  to have a beautiful car to show and fast enough to win).
We hope to have this car ready to participate at Rockingham for the next 6hrs DiSCA WEC event.


I will allready show you a few pictures into this project, as this all started a few weeks ("months") ago.

First things first - 3D model

The first step of this project is to design a 3D model, which would be printable.


Steven doing an axcellent job and still learning and perfecting his 3D modelling skills, gave us our first "test car".
This "test body" is actually designed to become something else then the Oreca07 that we are talking about at the moment.
But that will be for another time i'm afraid, can't tell to much about it now.
Just that this body is a bit wider then the Oreca07 we are designing (DiSCA WEC regulations).
I had the privilege of building this test car, we decided to make our own little version of the Dragonspeed Oreca07 testing at Daytona,
so it would represent our smaller scaled world a bit better.


Why this test car you may wonder!?
Well you can only tell so much from a picture, and this time the picture was a 3D model.

You actually need to have something in your hands, to feel and see the model and her curves!
(This sounds like it came straight out of a romantic novell, sorry).
And our own designed chassis needs to be tested, just to see if our ideas will actually work.

Phase 2 - Tweaking the 3D model and more ...

After we've build and tested the test car on the beautifull Ninco Suzuka track at SRC Eindhoven (Best, NL),
we noticed a few details that could use a bit more attention.
The things that will make it a lot easier for future costumers, to build this model into a stunning race car.
So for Steven it was back to the drawingboard and start tweaking his model.

At this point it was time for Tamar to start creating the decalset we would need to replicate the Team Signature Oreca07.
Just a "rough sketch" to start with was more then enough, but we received something a lot more then just a rough sketch!


Current Phase

At this point Steven tweaked the body a whole lot, it was nearly a complete redesign!
Tamar and myself encouraged Steven day after day, to tweak this thing and redesign another.
But I'm proud to say, it all payed off.

The next picture shows how the Oreca07 body, probably will be as a model kit.


I could write a lot more on were we actually stand at the moment with this build.
But what better way then to just let pictures do the talking!
* Prefitting the livery design on the car (Tamar)
* Vacformed and painted interior, driver P. Thiriet
* Primers and colors (Tamiya spray can)
* Basic color scheme done




Well, that's it for now.
Hope you allready enjoyed reading/viewing this post.
More to come real soon!

Kind Regards Tom
[+] 7 members Like Tom Van Leekwyck's post

Great work Tom, Steven and Tamar. Thumbup

Thanks for sharing it, I'll follow this with interest.

Nice car Tom,
How do you get such a  nice smooth paint job on the 3D printout ?


Forum Precepts:  Don't hijack or divert topics - create a new one.   Don't feed the Troll.
[+] 1 member Likes Scuderia_Turini's post

Would love to see the chassis.
[+] 1 member Likes steveaca's post

Looks gorgeous....... :)

Follow this with interest Thumbup
[+] 1 member Likes abie321's post

(29th-Jun-19, 10:55 PM)Scuderia_Turini Wrote:  Nice car Tom,
How do you get such a  nice smooth paint job on the 3D printout ?


Thank you Leo,

The short answer to your question woud be, time, patience and a lot of sanding during primer sessions.

This Oreca had about 6 primer sessions, I started with 1 layer/session and by the last 2 sessions i've put on 2 layers of primer.
After each session I had to wetsand the body competly, the first few I used a grit 800 and towards the end grit 1000.
I always waited 24 hours in between every handling I've done.
Primer - 24hrs - sanding - 24hrs - primer - and so on ...

After all of this was done, i sprayed on 2 layers of black (Tamiya pray can),
as the black would highlight the parts that required my attention a bit more
The rougher patches, luckely this time there were few to none visible.
A few spot of the turned out Flat a bit, something completly different the rough spots.
The flat spots will eventually go away as soon as the body gets a clearcoat.
But this time most of the flat spots will be covered by the Blue color that needed to on aswell,
this being "Mica Blue" from Tamiya aswell.

You might wonder, those are a lot of layers, (10 to 12), how much weight will this add?
We stayed just under 1gr. extra bodyweight.

It's a 2 week dedication process, but the result will last for forever!
It really is time consuming, but at the end it will all be worth it in my own opinion.

We are looking into faster and easier ways to get a 3DP body as smooth as this.
If we find a way, you will al get to know about it on the forum.

Hope to have answered you question.

Kind Regards Tom
[+] 4 members Like Tom Van Leekwyck's post

(30th-Jun-19, 06:20 AM)steveaca Wrote:  Would love to see the chassis.

You're not the first to ask.

But for now I still can't give you any information about this subject.

All will be reveiled soon in the next few weeks, after it has first outting in a race weekend (End of July).
So it can be tested and approved for production.

But what I allready can say, it's drawn to the track like a bee to the honey!!!


Kind Regards Tom
[+] 4 members Like Tom Van Leekwyck's post

Thanks Tom,
Patience - that has always been a challenge.

You got a fabulous finish though so well worth the effort.

Many thanks, Leo

Forum Precepts:  Don't hijack or divert topics - create a new one.   Don't feed the Troll.
[+] 1 member Likes Scuderia_Turini's post

God give me patience  - but I want it now! Bigsmile
[+] 3 members Like CMOTD's post

[attachment=2324 Wrote:Scuderia_Turini pid='2628' dateline='1561848956']Nice car Tom,
How do you get such a  nice smooth paint job on the 3D printout ?

I guess this is my que to join in and add my 2cts.

As part of the SV "development" team, I also recieved one of the prototype bodies. 
Having volunteered to the task of drawing the decals for the Signatec livery I initially had no plans to paint the body.
Mine would just serve as a template to apply the paper test stickers to....but...they just would not hold onto the 'bare" SLS surface.

With Tom already doing surface and paint work with the usual Tamiya cellulose base spray paint rattle cans & copious amounts of elbow grease, I thought it might be a good idea to try a different approach, one that might require less elbow grease and patience.
As I've achieved some very good results with painting 3DP rear wings with Vallejo surface primer I decided to go down the Acrylic route.

One of the main challenges with working with 3DP SLS material is that it is very hard to sand and that it is very poreus.
If you use (thin and fluid) cellulose based primers a lot of the paint gets sucked into the pores of the SLS material. 

Rattle cans are notoriously smelly and produce a lot of overspray, as Tom mentioned you need a lot of layers and sanding in between to build up a smooth surface while trying to keep the fine body details. (which he achieved very well) 

Vallejo Acrylic Surface primers are water based, so less smelly and have the advantage that they can be applied with airbrush straight out of the bottle, but can also be applied with a regular brush. Using a regular brush means its much easier to apply thick(er) coats of primer with good control of where you want to apply it..and where not.
Vallejo surface primer also has great self leveling properties, so even when applied over rough surfaces it dries with a very smooth surface finish.
But there's a catch...

Web Myth: You can not sand Vallejo Acrylic surface primer
Search the web for tutorials on Vallejo surface primer and each and every one will tell you that you can't sand (Vallejo) acrylic surface primers. 
Well..that is true...and not true.
It is true for the very thin layers that most modellers use on their static plastic/resin models. They've done all their body preparations, sanding and filling gaps before they apply the surface primer. They'll spray the thinnest layer possible just enough to get a smooth surface for the final colour coats of acrylic paint. Unlike cellulose thinner based primers that etch/bond to the surface material, acrylic primers create a thin film that "clings" to the surface like a wrap.
If you try to sand these thin layers you will cut through them at a certain point and the acrylic primer will loose its ability to cling to the surface and actually start to rub and peel off. 
Bye bye smooth finish.

But thicker coats of Vallejo surface primer can be sanded as long as you use fine grit and don't sand it too thin.
Acrylic paints are softer and remain more flexible than Cellulose/thinner based paints, which are handy properties when painting slot cars that have SLS printed bodies.
The image above shows the Surface primer on the un sanded front splitter, where as the nose cone and the front wheel arches have been wet sanded with fine grit. How fine is fine? well at least 800 grit, but I do most of my sanding with >1200 -2000 grit.

[Image: TFIL-SS-2.jpg?1420054485][Image: 019000091.jpg]
Use the sanding sticks for square and hard edges and paper for round and compound curves
An other useful tool to preserve the shapes and details of the SLS body surface while sanding the surface primer are these fine sanding sticks from Hobby Stix and Flexi File. They come in various grit and have a foam core so with a sharp set of pliers you can cut them to shape and size and get into almost every nook and cranny of the bodywork.

Semi matte or gloss finish
Above is the body after two-three coats of brushed on regular surface primer which has a nice semi matte finish, perfect tone to replicate the bare carbon parts on a sports car like wing and mirror supports, splitters diffuser etc etc. Off course wet sanding between each layer.

Below is the body with an added layer of the gloss finish surface primer, this coat was applied with an airbrush.

So looks nice, but again there's a catch
If you use Vallejo surface primer it means it's safest if you stick with Vallejo Acrylic paint for your final color layers as thinner/ cellulose based paints can 'burn" and "eat" the acrylic primer.
You might get away with it by applying vary thin layers with an airbrush, but I would advice against rattle cans.

With kind regards
[+] 2 members Like Tamar's post

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