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Shortened the guide holder post to lower the front end.
Got the cut right first time
Just swapping guides wasn't as simple as I thought though. The long post guides use ferrules to connect the braids to the motor, short post guides don't . Thought about drilling ferrule holes into the short guide but then it clicked!
It WAS simple.
I used the 'donut ring' cut from the bottom of the guide mount as a 'locking ring' on top of the original long post guide blade.
Job done
Need to see how it runs on Saturday now
(This post was last modified: 30th-Aug-19, 06:35 AM by
Top Down.)
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(25th-Aug-19, 01:05 PM)Top Down Wrote: 'Race-prepped' Scalex' Classic Mini update.
Fingers crossed I haven't spoilt the driving experience by overpowering it, or placing the weight too high up - but the lead can quickly be removed if needs be. (Initially I had lead taped to the underside of the motor but it proved TOO low on my only bit of track - an SCX terminal straight.)
Can't wait to give it a try next weekend!
Hello Top Down, You could always try placing your lead weights on either side of the motor can...........this will lower the cg., and will have no adverse effects on the motor performance whatsoever.
I have done this on many many cars over the years.
Below is a shot of an F1 car with lead on either side of the motor.
Cheers
Chris Walker
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Doh!
Thanks, should have thought of that myself!
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Changed back to Pendle's own Urethane (?) tyres (re-trued after re-fitting) and shaved another third of a second off a lap
I
this Mini!
Oh - and P.S. Tried weight on the motor, as above. Doesn't need it. Runs quicker, corners better and is more predictable and fun to drive without weight.
(This post was last modified: 24th-Sep-19, 07:42 AM by
Top Down.)