11th-Jun-25, 08:03 PM
MR Slotcar Corvette C1 3dp mods
I thought I would start a separate thread under 3dp for the C1, as the car has stimulated a lot of discussion elsewhere on the pros and cons of this particular car and I wanted to highlight a 3dp modification i.e. a Flat 6 motor pod.
My 4ps worth on the original car itself is that it has several contradictions, i.e. an American V8 sports car with a FF050 motor, a wood guide and a magnet. The shell is crisply moulded and light at 19 grms, plus is painted/decaled to a reasonable standard. Not overly fussed on the accuracy of the shell and its compromises, and can live with the toy like driver figure, so overall, is fine for club racing. The wheels are all alloy with some nice period inserts and will take slightly bigger rubber. My local club’s Goodwood pre67 front engined sports car class allows rubber up to 10mm wide and motors either Flat6 or Boxers up to 22.5K rpm or S cans to 25K, so the supplied FF050 18K motor has to go. Interested in the chassis design/body mounting so my 1st thought was to shoehorn a Flat 6 (insufficient depth for a Boxer unless the interior comes out) into the existing chassis in a new 3dp pod and perhaps make a complete new chassis with interior replacement later on to compare the two.
Several design and print iterations later I have a Flat 6 motor pod that fits into the chassis as shown. I put outriggers more towards the rear so as to enable M2 6mm grub screws to act as movement limits instead of using the set height plastic inserts under the arms on the original pod. Added a spring to the rear pod fixing and retained the O ring to the front to cope with the club Ninco track. The motor is retained by 2 screws to the rear and a retaining hoop forward. The rear axle now runs in Slot It spherical bearings as this gives a stronger support to the axle for a printed pod.
Printing wise I used custom supports to cope with the need to support the pod overhanging the chassis on the sides and each end.
Other modifications are replacing the front wheels/tyres & rear wheels/tyres with PCS wheels and 10mm tyres, 9:25 gearing again using a 1mm offset cog. The wood guide is replaced with a Scaleauto plastic track one, which is a drop in fit and the front axle raised and ground down tyres to get the guide to sit correctly. The body sits on the original steel plates with the O rings now above the steel plates not under to drop the shell down.
Didn’t bother much with testing the original chassis setup, but went straight to the modifications so I can club race. The car handles well (on home Carrera track) with the low slung heavy chassis plate and the Flat 6 R 22K rpm motor now giving it respectable performance. Handling compared to my other Goodwood cars like the Cheetah is good as it runs smoothly and predictably into the bend with some body movement evident and digs in when accelerating out
Will see how competitive this is at the next Goodwood meeting and whether a complete 3dp chassis is warranted.
Cheers
John
I thought I would start a separate thread under 3dp for the C1, as the car has stimulated a lot of discussion elsewhere on the pros and cons of this particular car and I wanted to highlight a 3dp modification i.e. a Flat 6 motor pod.
My 4ps worth on the original car itself is that it has several contradictions, i.e. an American V8 sports car with a FF050 motor, a wood guide and a magnet. The shell is crisply moulded and light at 19 grms, plus is painted/decaled to a reasonable standard. Not overly fussed on the accuracy of the shell and its compromises, and can live with the toy like driver figure, so overall, is fine for club racing. The wheels are all alloy with some nice period inserts and will take slightly bigger rubber. My local club’s Goodwood pre67 front engined sports car class allows rubber up to 10mm wide and motors either Flat6 or Boxers up to 22.5K rpm or S cans to 25K, so the supplied FF050 18K motor has to go. Interested in the chassis design/body mounting so my 1st thought was to shoehorn a Flat 6 (insufficient depth for a Boxer unless the interior comes out) into the existing chassis in a new 3dp pod and perhaps make a complete new chassis with interior replacement later on to compare the two.
Several design and print iterations later I have a Flat 6 motor pod that fits into the chassis as shown. I put outriggers more towards the rear so as to enable M2 6mm grub screws to act as movement limits instead of using the set height plastic inserts under the arms on the original pod. Added a spring to the rear pod fixing and retained the O ring to the front to cope with the club Ninco track. The motor is retained by 2 screws to the rear and a retaining hoop forward. The rear axle now runs in Slot It spherical bearings as this gives a stronger support to the axle for a printed pod.
Printing wise I used custom supports to cope with the need to support the pod overhanging the chassis on the sides and each end.
Other modifications are replacing the front wheels/tyres & rear wheels/tyres with PCS wheels and 10mm tyres, 9:25 gearing again using a 1mm offset cog. The wood guide is replaced with a Scaleauto plastic track one, which is a drop in fit and the front axle raised and ground down tyres to get the guide to sit correctly. The body sits on the original steel plates with the O rings now above the steel plates not under to drop the shell down.
Didn’t bother much with testing the original chassis setup, but went straight to the modifications so I can club race. The car handles well (on home Carrera track) with the low slung heavy chassis plate and the Flat 6 R 22K rpm motor now giving it respectable performance. Handling compared to my other Goodwood cars like the Cheetah is good as it runs smoothly and predictably into the bend with some body movement evident and digs in when accelerating out
Will see how competitive this is at the next Goodwood meeting and whether a complete 3dp chassis is warranted.
Cheers
John
Mr Fit for Function.
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