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Vac formed glass problems
#1

Hello,

Has anyone out there got a magic remedy for  removing super glue marks from a piece of vac formed glass from a resin kit? 

I made a lash of fitting it, then put it into a sealed container.   Took it out today,and it looked like it had been out all night, and  needed defrosting!   Have wiped it with a soft cloth, but it looks poor.

Thanks,  
Pip
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#2

PiP,
I have used the abrasive fluid from an automotive headlight cleaning kit to remove superglue from slotcar  injection molded  crystalwork.
It is a lot of work and the results are good but not as good as a new replacement crystal work kit.
It might work for vacformed parts but I've never tried that.

The fluid is a  very mild abrasive . Maybe any very mild abrasive would work. 

Hope this helps
AlanW
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#3

Thanks Alan,

I spent ages getting the windscreen area correct for a Lotus 30, then mucked up the fitment.  I will mark out a new piece, but it is a tricky shape,  then give this a go. Nothing to lose really. 

Thank you for your help, 

Pip
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#4

You might want to get some Novus polish and use a 3mm circular polishing pad.
[+] 1 member Likes DPJ's post
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#5

Thanks both for your help.

 Before purchasing anything specific,  I thought I'd try what was around the house.....

1. Warm water and washing up liquid. 
Let it soak for 20 minutes, then tried to clean the marks off.   Looked great  until I dried it, and it wasn't really any better at all! 

2.   Cif, or Jif, or whatever its called this week....
Applied a tiny amount onto a  Jay cloth,  and just worked it around. Rinsed, checked, and repeated. 
After 15 minutes,  and getting braver each time with more Cif, it worked a treat.

Now very nearly back to how it was before I mucked it up.  Will refit, using a  very small amount of canopy glue, and hope it bloody works!
[+] 1 member Likes Gpa113's post
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#6

Superglue is OK to fit crystalwork, 
but don't close the body onto the chassis  it or box it 'till the next day.
Alan
[+] 1 member Likes Nonfractal's post
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#7

I always use Super-Gold + non fogging CA when I'm working with clear parts and I need a super bond. Otherwise I use Model Master clear drying window maker.

@Gpa113 - lets see pics of it!
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#8

That is exactly where I went wrong Alan.  Not only did I get finger marks on the screen, but I then put the kit away in a sealed container. 
Lesson learned. Thankfully by gently rubbing the body with a soft cloth it was fine.   The screen looked rubbish......


Here you go DPJ, not finished,  but mounted onto the chassis.   
It is Pendle slot kit of a Lotus 30. Standard Scalextric 18k motor, fitted into a Gomm chassis,  which the body was designed to accept. 
Has gone together very nicely,  the resin body was excellent,  and needed no modifications. 

Thanks for the non fogging super glue recommendation,  will purchase some.

   
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#9

Just realised that the screen looks cracked in the picture,  it isn't,  just a trick of the light  Checkeredflag
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