Posts: 433
Threads: 4
Likes Received: 962 in 403 posts
Likes Given: 1,224
Joined: Jun 2019
Location The Netherlands
Hi all,
Some years ago I tried to make working wing lights on Slot.it's 4WD Audi e-tron quattro R18.
First using the original non-transparant wing. That turned out to be too weak...
Then I drew a new wing and had it printed by Shapeways (
https://www.shapeways.com/) in a transparent material.
That material turned out to be too brittle for the hard slotcar life...
Now Shapeways has a new material. SLA Plastic - Accura® 60.
I hope this transparent plastic is stronger than the plastic from my first attempt. Anyone familiar with this plastic material?
One of these days I hope to get a print in the new material.
To be continued...
The printed wing...
2 small LEDs on each side of the wing...
The end result... (no lights on the left car)
Here I used an original transparent wing from Slot.it...
Posts: 3,196
Threads: 116
Likes Received: 2,140 in 1,269 posts
Likes Given: 2,840
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Isle of Man
Flexible filament would probably be best...but not easy to print with.
•
Posts: 3,676
Threads: 617
Likes Received: 7,786 in 2,803 posts
Likes Given: 8,478
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Worthing, UK
That’s a magnificent piece of work
Posts: 3,196
Threads: 116
Likes Received: 2,140 in 1,269 posts
Likes Given: 2,840
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Isle of Man
(19th-Oct-21, 11:44 PM)Kevan Wrote: Flexible filament would probably be best...but not easy to print with.
TPU to you and me...
Posts: 433
Threads: 4
Likes Received: 962 in 403 posts
Likes Given: 1,224
Joined: Jun 2019
Location The Netherlands
Hi Kevan,
TPU could be a good material if it is transparent. Shapeways only offers a non-transparent version.
I know there is a transparent TPU filament for sale, but I don't have a printer (yet).
So I'm going to try the sla-accura-60 (
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/sla-accura-60) plastic first.
I don't know this material yet. It does promise something...
Thanks for thinking along
•
Posts: 673
Threads: 26
Likes Received: 1,111 in 511 posts
Likes Given: 369
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Auburn, WA, USA
SLA is a resin printer. I'm sure theirs is really nice, and all, but you can get one for less than $200 these days. If you buy much from Shapeways, you'll save in the long run by getting your own printer.
As the description says, optical clarity requires post processing (polishing), but it will pipe light just as well as the photos above, if that's all that's needed.
Posts: 433
Threads: 4
Likes Received: 962 in 403 posts
Likes Given: 1,224
Joined: Jun 2019
Location The Netherlands
Hi MrFlippant,
I understand you have 2 Prusa i3 Mk3 printers.
What I am particularly interested in is the print quality and the reliability of the machine.
For example, not visible print layers, or not so visible.
That's why I find the SLA type printers interesting. Especially the newest Anycubic printer that is not yet available.
What I want to avoid is that I'm constantly improving the printer, instead of printing models or parts for models.
So the Prusa i3 Mk3 seems like a good candidate. Or are the cheap (clones) printers just as good these days?
Gerrit
•
Posts: 673
Threads: 26
Likes Received: 1,111 in 511 posts
Likes Given: 369
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Auburn, WA, USA
Prusa starts with quality hardware. That's why they are more expensive than printers of a similar "i3" design, such as the Ender 3 and others. What you'll find is that Ender users are often purchasing replacements for things that wear out quickly, or are of lower quality (which shows in their prints), or to add features that are lacking on their machines. There's nothing wrong with those machines, and they can produce high quality prints without too much fuss. I'll put it this way... I've never seen a Prusa owner switch to an Ender and be happy... but I've seen plenty the other way around. No, cheap clones are not just as good. I have two machines because one wasn't enough to fulfill orders/requests in a timely manner. Both machines tend to be printing more than they are dormant, and they have been solid workhorses requiring little to no maintenance or repair.
You can get some great quality, with very thin layers, out of filament printers. That said, if you want high detail with little to no visible layering, then a resin printer is the way to go. There are pros and cons for each type of printing, but detail is where resin really shines. Here's a comparison between prints of the same model (the stig) at exceptional quality on my Prusa (left) and normal quality on my Elegoo Mars (right). Neither have had any cleanup or post processing of any kind. These are straight off the printer (or curing machine).
Posts: 433
Threads: 4
Likes Received: 962 in 403 posts
Likes Given: 1,224
Joined: Jun 2019
Location The Netherlands
Thanks for the clear answer, just a pity that I can't display the photo. Maybe an error in the link?
•
Posts: 673
Threads: 26
Likes Received: 1,111 in 511 posts
Likes Given: 369
Joined: Apr 2019
Location Auburn, WA, USA
Trying a different way.