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Basic Home Controller

Looking at The Manual, it says something in the range 25-45 ohms will do the job.

What would the different characteristics be of a 25 ohm controller compared to a 45 ohm one?

I play with cars that have standard Scalextric and type motors in them.

I love puttering with gears

Always best to try before you buy. I can lend you some Parmas (35, 45 & 60j if you’re over this way sometime.
[+] 1 member Likes woodcote's post

As Woodcote says.

There is no hard and fast rule. Much depends on your hand/eye coordination. The BSCRA website is a mine of information so here is their advice:

"A frequently asked question is what value resistance controller / how many ohms do I need?  (This is a non issue for adjustable electronic controllers -  just twiddle the knob to give you whatever you need.)  

Unfortunately the what value resistance controller you need may not have a single answer - you may need more than one.
  • Motor power - higher powered motors take more current, so a lower resistance is needed to slow them down.  Set against this higher powered motors make the car go faster so they need more slowing down for corners.  Mostly the first factor is more important so higher powered motors most often need a lower resistance controller.

  • Chassis handling - more power can be applied in corners with a better handling chassis. So the motor doesn't need the power reducing as much. So better handling chassis usually need a lower resistance controller.

  • Tyre / track grip - cars corner faster with  more grip. So the motor doesn't need slowing down as much. So more grip usually need a lower resistance controller.  That's true whatever is providing the extra grip - for example stickier tyres, magnet traction or aerodynamic downforce.

  • Tight corners - cars need to go slower round tighter corners. So the motor need slowing down more. So tracks with tighter corners usually need a higher resistance controller.

  • Track power - cars go faster with more track power. So the motor need slowing down more for corners. So tracks with higher power usually need a higher resistance controller.  This is true for tracks with a higher supply voltage. It is usually true of tracks with better wiring because more of the supply voltage actually reaches the car at the far side of the track.

  • Driver choice - some driver's driving style is suited to a lower resistance controllers than others.

So where do you start? I know some people will have different ideas, but as a starting point:
Basic home set 1/32 45 to 75 ohms 
Quicker home set type cars 15 to 45 ohms"

For the price of two resistor controllers you could buy a basic electronic one which will adjust for any car so I would always recommend going down that route if possible.
[+] 2 members Like CMOTD's post

When I started club racing about 7 years ago I bought a basic Parma 25 ohm. After a while I upgraded to the better Parma 25 ohm with a metal frame and it definitely improved my driving and speed. I also had to buy a second lower ohm Parma to use with my Vintage cars (Cox, Monogram etc and Dynamic chassis with 26D motors) as they were undriveable with a 25 ohm

 I eventually bit the bullet and bought an adjustable controller and it was a revelation. No more struggling to control 30,000 rpm modern motors with a controller that felt like an on/off switch. Just twiddle the knobs and it makes pretty much anything driveable. I chose a controller which could handle the higher power of vintage motors as well and gone are the days of pulling the trigger halfway before anything happens and then finding it all happens in one go.

 AS CMOTD said a couple of resistor controllers will cost about the same as a basic adjustable controller and the adjustable will give a far better driving experience once you have set it up for each car. I look back at the money I spent and wish I had gone for an adjustable from the start.
[+] 3 members Like autoavia's post

I find anything over 25ohms to be completely dead, even with modern motors like the NSRs that I use!

For the old cars I use either 5ohms or 7.5ohms.

It really is different for some people so trying is the only way to find out what suits you but the adjustables are the obvious way to go. I just like the old MRRC thumb controllers and use them for preference but the adjustable is good for the modern motors.

I was expecting to get answers along the lines of "all you actually need is a 35 ohm Fred Bloggs and that will sort you out". I wasn't expecting a set of responses that seem to suggest that modern adjustable controllers are better than the old school kit!

I love puttering with gears

I was very sceptical that adjustable controllers were the way to go until other club members loaned me different ones to try.

 The next question is inevitably "Which adjustable controller is the best" and unfortunately there is no simple answer to that question either. It depends on what you are racing coupled with your own preferences and what you are prepared to pay.

 I am not a fan but the DS range seem quite popular at our club and they are relatively inexpensive. Others prefer Slotit controllers but they don't have a return spring so some don't like the lack of feel. Truspeed also make good controllers but they have new models under development for some time now so I am not sure what they have available at the moment.

Maybe others can give some feedback from their own experiences.

I have a Truspeed for our club SSD racing, and a SCP-2 for serious analogue and oXigen racing. 

I thought I was missing a basic 'home' analogue controller from my armoury, but maybe not.

I love puttering with gears
[+] 1 member Likes BARacer's post

I would say an old-school resistor controller is a good thing to have in your armoury. For those of us who grew up with Scalextric (or whatever home system), I think our brains are tuned to the direct nature of a resistor controller.

What ohmage our brains work at is a different question - and is very personal. 45 ohms is perfect for me for most standard motors on an averagely twisty home track. But an adjustable electronic controller is more versatile (adjustable to track, motor and driver) and offers nuanced adjustments to acceleration, braking, throttle curve etc.

Where a simple resistor controller is particularly handy is to strip things back to that basic finger (or thumb) to motor link. That means I can sum up a new car in an instant, without controller settings clouding the water. It can also tell me if I have a problem with my electronic controller (or more likely the settings I'm using). I should always be able to adjust an electronic controller to get a better feel and faster lap times than my trusty 45 ohm Parma Eco. If I can't, then I need to work on those adjustments. So having a resistor controller that suits your driving style and the general type of cars you drive is an excellent reference point for setting up cars and adjustable controllers.

Apart from an armful of Parma Economy resistor controllers, I have a Truspeed MT1 and a SCP2 (analogue & oXigen) which I use. The Parma controllers are hard to come by these days. The DS v.3 'Slot Racing Controller' is a very good replacement - and offers 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55-ohm versions.
[+] 1 member Likes woodcote's post

Parma controllers are not just hard to come by - they are an ex parrot and no longer made. Mind you, past production numbers were absolutely enormous, most people I know started out with them so there should be loads out there somewhere and eventually heading to eBay. I still prefer their handle shape over modern contollers.
[+] 2 members Like CMOTD's post

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