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HO stuff

I did the same test with the AW T-jets.

One car was a bit smoother than the rest. A 1968 Buick Riviera. Braids will be added shortly.


Micro Scalex Street Stock.


Micro Scalex Super Stock 6.0 should be finished shortly. I should be able to send cars off at the beginning of this week. Yay!  Thumbup
[+] 1 member Likes KensRedZed's post

Great job on the 4-Gears  Thumbup

They can be cr@p out of the packet, but a little bit of tinkering under the hood usually gets them going nicely. It’ll be great to have another nation represented at the races!


Thank you for your kind words. Go Canada Go!

My newbie motto. I came in last, but had a blast.  Sun  I'm okay with that because I'm the newest kid on the block (at age 59).

There is no timing system so cars can only be compared. I don't think it's worth investing in the timing system for home use. I doubt anyone will send cars to Canada.

To my knowledge, 7-foot tracks are unheard of in North America.

But, I'm having fun and the rest of the cars are getting rebuilt and updates for the road-race set. I've had the AFX road-race set on the wall for 3-years, barely used. It's about time eh?

Funny note: I originally thought the 4-gear cars were going to be fast. I had to go back and check the ET's to see that they aren't really all that fast. I thought I had 4-duds at first.  Bigsmile

I parked the red Camaro because there is another Camaro in the field. No Buick Rivieras in sight.  Thumbup
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Ken, You will have a blast at Andys race. 
New Kid at 59? You’re only a youngster. Thumbup
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That Riv looks sinister indeed, and I'm tickled to see them all shining  right side up like a car show! Thanx for indulging me. 

The Specialty chassis? Ya either love them, or ya hate them ... LOL.

Of all the things one can throw at them, dental hygiene is goes a long way to helping the motor lug all the extra monkey motion around. Everybody has some secret formula for lapping gear teeth, as well as elaborate methods to avoid getting "Anyonya", the gritty younger sister of the lapping process. There were once volumes dedicated to the topic in Cyberville.

For light duty (read especially plastic), I prefer to use a toothpaste base.

#1.  It's water soluble. No cost rinsing for the chassis, the bench top, or your clothes.
#2.  Your cars will smell minty fresh.

You'll need a dab of toothpaste in a plastic lid, and a swizzle stick. Add enough water drops from a common water bottle with the squeeze top, so as to create a light slurry. I use the stick to stir the mix, and daub it on.

As long as we're slopping around, I usually try to go for the value meal.

I use alligator jumpers from the bench test unit, so one can have have hands free; as well as cycle the power on an off to reload the cutting agent. Ya gotta stay right with it during the process. I keep some oil at the ready, as lubricity isnt always guaranteed with plastic gears and a cutting agent. It'll tell ya when it wants some!

What we're looking for, is listening. LOL! The auditory clue that you are done will clearly present itself when we hear the chassis pipe up clean and the RPMs increase beyond where the process was started. Often, WELL beyond; which is why we do it.

Simply put, the chassis will sing a better tune; so it's up to us to listen for it ... AND yer done! No point or benefit in going beyond the sweet spot.

For stubborn plastic gear sets, and most all metal sets, or any sets that have been scrambled up or randomized from their "ran in mating", I'll augment the slurry with some medium autobody rubbing compound. Best to keep it thinner and let it eat a while, rather than gobbing it; and heating up the wind. For the overly hard first gen Dash gear sets, some water soluble valve grinding compound was added to shut them up. True Grit. The exception, rather than the rule. No need for overkill unless warranted.

Rather than driving the gear train via some outside slave mechanism,  and then arbitrarily calling it good; simply because a certain amount of time has elapsed, has always mystified me since it was explained. Allowing the armature and gear train to tell us when it's optimized, was a tidbit an old fast guy imparted to me. So long as the resistance of the cutting agent is kept within the load capability of the motor, everything smooths out and we hit the sweet spot right on the button. Not because we think so, but because the armature sez so. Time

I have another simple alternative technique that works great for original T-jets, that I'll share here at some point.

Your enthusiasm inspires Ken. There will be cave time today!


PS: Here's an old trick that I usually have to kill people after I tell them. When one is brush tuning, running in a motor, or gear lapping; I use an old AM radio. Turn it on, dial it down towards the bottom of the scale and listen ... Low buck, low tech!

Where some must die, so that others may live. Wrench
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Mazda. Thank you very kindly. Nitroslots website was also very helpful.

Bill. Minty fresh is my favorite flavour! The AM radio idea is a good one. It will be done.

A few more pics of the Riviera since I won't be seeing it for a while.


So the last class for me was the Scalex Super Stock 6.0.

I nearly killed/melted the poor little plastic chassis trying to change the motor. The metal braid supports inside the chassis got deformed from the heat. I ended up breaking the original braid holder/guide. Luckily I had a spare. I bent the braid supports back in place... sort of.  Part of the tab on the motor broke off. I was not having a good day. Then I found the rear axle was defective/bent hidden inside the crown. That was a new one for me. I was ready to give up. Fortunately the care package from a generous doner had one more axle that was smooth. The pinion was changed. An axle spacer was added to set the gear mesh. The front tires were trued.

First test... Oh My Goodness! I never saw a little car go so fast! I said "Whoa!" loud enough that my wife came to the top of the stairs and asked "What happened?". The 6.0 motor eats the entire shut down area. This type of speed needs dynamic braking! Too funny!  Thumbup

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Well Ken, braking is better than breaking! It just means you are having fun at terminal velocity. The catch box will be next ... giggle.


Where some must die, so that others may live. Wrench

Hi Bill,

The fast 6-Ohm Scalex car will be shipped out today and won't be seen for a long time. No need for a catch-box with 15-Ohm cars.

But when the time comes. Jerry the HO track marshal is ready!  Thumbup

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The funny car got braids today rather than yesterday. Don't you hate it when work gets in the way of your hobby?

I tried to remove excess solder from the braid after the installation. I got carried away and took a bit too much off. Re-soldering wicked a bit too far up the braid. That's the failed braid on the left.

Clive and Bill were both kind enough to point out my newbie mistake with the AW T-jet braids being soldered on both ends. Oops. Thank you very kindly, Gentlemen.


These cars are being sent off today for the race in May. If they take a long time to get there. July will do just fine.

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Seems I'm not the only person that likes the mid 60's Riviera.

Upon signing a contract for the TV series Star-Trek in 1966. Leonard Nimoy went out and bought one of these. He was quite proud of it too.


A 2016 Hot Wheels tribute to Spock and his new car in 1966.

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