S-Can/Short Can Motors - Printable Version

S-Can/Short Can Motors - Printable Version

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RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - woodcote - 22nd-Nov-20

Pip - Pendles sell these, for £5.95 each. I haven't tried them yet, but they do look perfect - the shaft is nice and long so will get the pinion to the crown on almost all the Scalextric FF cars. It will certainly need cutting to fit the saloons and probably most other cars. But you don't have to worry about it not being long enough.

These are the ones I got. They arrived quite quickly (2 weeks?) from Shenzhen back in January. I've bought a few motors from the vendor (hello_alian) and he lists them precisely and is very receptive to haggling for bulk buys - £1 each works for me. The shaft sticks out 9.4mm, which will need trimming down for most cars.

The best way to cut the shaft is to power up the motor and then cut using a dremel + cutting disk. Do it fast, wear eye protection and don't burn your fingers Thumbup

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - Mitch58 - 22nd-Nov-20

(20th-Nov-20, 01:16 PM)BourneAgainRacer Wrote: Just getting into motors...

I noticed that Pendle have separate categories for S-Can and Short Can motors.

I can see that S-Cans perhaps all have a separate plastic end bell, whereas Short Can motors seem to be enclosed within a metal case. But I cannot believe there are separate categories just based on the design of the case.

Are there fundamental differences between these two motor types?

They are completely different motors and are not interchangeable without adaptors. The most common types of modern motors are FC-130 (S-can),FK-130 (Short Can) and FK 180 (long can). They all come in many RPM and different torque ratings for your individual wants/needs. If you go back a few years there are many other types, most of which are no longer produced

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - Gpa113 - 22nd-Nov-20

Hi Andy,

Excellent, thank you for your help, much appreciated. Sun

Pip

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - Anthony B - 24th-Dec-20

In the picture of the motors I put up - the dual sided shaft motor is very docile - Maybe equivalent to an NC1.

However the motor with the 'Toyota' style can - screams and I mean screams. Really sounds like a cobalt motor. It terrifies me as I am sure it will blow if run for more than 10 seconds flat out Cool

I didnt take the label seriously when I ordered it - but is says this:

DC 2.4V-3V Ultra High Speed Power Mini 130 Motor DIY RC Toy 4WD Racing Slot Car

How long do you think it will last under normal racing conditions ?? Bigsmile

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - chrisguyw - 24th-Dec-20

(24th-Dec-20, 11:15 PM)Anthony B Wrote: In the picture of the motors I put up - the dual sided shaft motor is very docile - Maybe equivalent to an NC1.

However the motor with the 'Toyota' style can - screams and I mean screams. Really sounds like a cobalt motor. It terrifies me as I am sure it will blow if run for more than 10 seconds flat out
I didnt take the label seriously when I ordered it - but is says this:

DC 2.4V-3V Ultra High Speed Power Mini 130 Motor DIY RC Toy 4WD Racing Slot Car

How long do you think it will last under normal racing conditions ??

Well, I would not use one for you next club enduro Bigsmile

............these "Mini Z" motors are generally powered by 4 AAA batteries (1.2 to 1.5 volts each), so, 6(ish) max. volts total, and the magnet gauss and arm winds are selected to provide good performance at this voltage.............at 10 to 12 volts on your club track,.......well, you did say they were inexpensive !! Bigsmile

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS The good news is that the endbell material is usually strong enough to keep the blown comm. fragments inside the motor. Bigsmile

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - BourneAgainRacer - 25th-Dec-20

Bigsmile

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - Grah1 - 26th-Dec-20

The Toyota symboled motors are wound with about 18-20 turns of what looks like 23 awg and dont have carbon brushes but the comutator looks great so I'm going to rewind one with a sensible wind and add some carbon brushes just because I like the look of the can .

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - chrisguyw - 26th-Dec-20

(26th-Dec-20, 05:19 PM)Grah1 Wrote: The Toyota symboled motors are wound with about 18-20 turns of what looks like 23 awg and dont have carbon brushes but the comutator looks great so I'm going to rewind one with a sensible wind and add some carbon brushes just because I like the look of the can .

Hi Grah1, if the "Toyota" motor is wound 18/20T x 23awg it is likely from the little toy RC cars that run on 3 volts (2 AAA batteries) ,.....even the "Hot" Mini Z motors that run on 6 volts (4 AAA batteries) are generally no hotter than 50T x 28awg,.....and these have proper carbon brushes/strong springs.

If in fact this is the wind,...without proper brushes and much stronger brush springs the little bugger will last nano seconds at 10/12 volts Sun

As most of the "mini" and "mini z" motors have stack lengths of between .275 and .300, a wind in the range of 70T x 30awg is likely as hot as you will be able to go.
(As a reference, in case you were not aware, JK Falcons and the like are wound 65T x 30awg, with a .375 length stack, and, with better brush gear)

Love to hear how it turns out,.....and,...Happy Holidays. Thumbup

Cheers
Chris Walker

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - Grah1 - 26th-Dec-20

The standard brush gear is a heavy brass coloured contact and when I powered it up on 12v as Anthony says they scream my test on SF results clocked 225550 rpm before I shut it down .Shades of strap motor lol. I did get a puff of smoke before I killed the power but no damage .

RE: S-Can/Short Can Motors - chrisguyw - 26th-Dec-20

(26th-Dec-20, 09:16 PM)Grah1 Wrote: The standard brush gear is a heavy brass coloured contact and when I powered it up on 12v as Anthony says they scream my test on SF results clocked 225550 rpm before I shut it down .Shades of strap motor lol. I did get a puff of smoke before I killed the power but no damage .

Wow, 225K...........my hand built Koford $450US Eurosport motors struggle to do much more than that.................with a cold steel armature shaft, a non balanced/non epoxied and unground arm, cheap bushings, a plastic non tied non epoxied untrue comm, topped off with the cheapest brush gear that the Chinese toy car motor manufacturers offer,....you are a lucky man Thumbup

Not that I do not believe you , but , in my opinion, you motor would have disintegrated well (well) before 100K. Sun

Cheers
Chris Walker

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