Hydro-dipping - Printable Version
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Hydro-dipping - Johnno - 6th-Jul-20
Recently I've seen a few posts about Hydra-dipping, since I'd never heard of this reference, I did a little research and discovered some info which I paste here.
What is hydro dipping and how to dip?
Hydro dipping (also known as immersion printing, water transfer printing and hydro imaging ) is a unique process that allows you to apply graphics to almost any three-dimensional object. This process has been used for years in the auto industry along with many other fields. Other items like firearms, helmets, gaming controllers & ATV's are widely decorated with hydro films these days. There are many different materials (substrates) the film can be applied on such as plastic, metal, wood, and more.
Below are the steps in the dipping process and things to know.
Just to be safe. Keep in mind when hydro dipping, that if water would damage the item any other time such as with electronic devices, then you do not want to dip it as the item will be fully submerged under water. In other words, DO NOT dip your Xbox, PlayStation or even your gaming controller. You need to take it apart (this will most likely void any warranties) and only dip the shell without the electronics. This goes with almost any electronic device.
On a side note, if you want a pair of camouflage socks or a lamp shade with dragons on it? Then go for it!!
NOTE: Some suppliers of hydro film will lie and tell you that you have to use their paints and/or activator. This is NOT true and is just a sales gimmick. Though some activators may work better with some types of film, a good and high quality activator will work for most all films such as hydrovator-activator or K2 SuperBrew.
Prep Work:
After you have decided on an item to be dipped and what design you want to use, it is time to prep the item for dipping. Really, the prep process is no different than if you were just going to be painting the item. You still need to sand/scuff up (if needed or required) the item, prime it, apply a base coat and a clear coat to protect it. The only difference is that now you are adding one step after you apply your base coat and before applying your clear coat, and that's the dipping process.
Base Coat:
The base coat is the layer of paint that gives the film something to adhere too and provides the backing colour or secondary colour to the hydro film design. Most films are designed to work with a white or light tan base coat, but many films can be applied over almost any colour. Even a film that is designed for a white base coat can be applied over another colour to completely change the colouring of the design and make it truly unique.
When viewing our in stock designs, you will see the recommended base coat colour in the product details.
NOTE: You do not have to use a gloss or high gloss base coat just because you want the item being dipped to look like glass when your done. In fact, it is your clear coat that will give the finished product the glossy or matte finish you desire.
Film:
Designs are printed using a special kind of ink on a PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) film usually with a rotary printer and some small batches on wide format printers using special inks. This film is water soluble and is designed to absorb moisture which allows the film and ink to soften and become more pliable.
Most films are designed to be hydrated on 90°F water for 60 seconds. Some films such as our Metallic and 40 micron films still need 90°F water but require longer to hydrate, about 90-120 seconds.
When laying the film on the water, you need to be sure that you are laying the correct side of the film facing down. The most reliable way (in my opinion) is to wet your finger and thumb and then grab a corner of the film. When you let go of the film, it will stick to either your finger or your thumb. The sticky side goes facing down. The reason it is sticking to your finger/thumb is that side of the film is the side that is designed to pull in the moisture to hydrate the film.
Check for those air bubbles!! After you lay the film on the water, you will need to get close up and look for air bubbles trapped under the film. An air bubble will prevent that spot of the film from hydrating and therefor leave you with a spot of only your base coat after dipping. When you do find an air bubble, gently blow on it to make it move off to the side and out from underneath the film. Some air bubbles get stubborn and you may need to gently poke/press on it to get it to move.
For smaller or more flat items that are being dipped, such as a light switch covers, you can tape off the border of the film to lay on the water and hydrate. Cut a few relief cuts in the tape before laying on water.
We do recommend however using tanks that allow for barriers rather than masking off borders. This allows the film to naturally expand/contract as needed when hydrating and dipping. If you do not have a high dollar professional dipping tank, don't worry. Before you go to dip, get two pieces of masking tape ready. One that is about 4 inches wider (left to right sides) than the tank and one about 4 inches longer then the depth (front to back) of the tank. After you lay the film on the water, make sure the film is in a corner of your tank and lay these on the water about a quarter inch away from the film and use the extra couple inches to secure them to the sides of your tank. The two pieces of tape will over lap each other and float on the water. By doing so, you will be creating the other two walls (barriers) for the film and it will prevent the film from expanding to far out and acting the same way the barriers on professional grade tanks do.
Activator:
Activator is a chemical that is used in the dipping process that makes it all possible. This chemical is applied to the film after the film has finished hydrating. When the activator is applied, it makes the film dissolve and liquefies the ink.
When dipping with metallic films, you will need to apply a quick and light spray over the film as soon as you lay it on the water and again after it is done hydrating.
Under and over activating are two of the leading causes in problems with hydro dipping. You are not applying a layer of paint, you just need enough activator (with a fine mist, fan pattern spray) to cover the film lightly.
Not all activators are the same. Make sure you are using a good, quality brand activator. We recommend hydrovator-activator with all out films.
Dipping:
After the film has hydrated and the activator has been applied, the item that is having the graphics applied on is slowly lowered (dipped) into the film. As the item is being lowered into the water that has the now liquefied film on top, the surface tension of the water presses the film/design to all angles and surfaces of the item being dipped. This allows the design to be applied on curves and different angles. This film adheres to the surface of the base coat as a result of a chemical reaction between the activator and base coat. The activator softens the outer layer of the base coat which allows the design to bond with the base coat on the item rather than just being another layer over the base coat.
Rinsing:
After your are done dipping, you will notice that the dipped item has a slimy residue all over it now. This residue needs to be rinsed off. People do this in many different ways, using shower heads, garden hoses and even the kitchen sink (again, not recommended as the activator has a strong odour) for the rinsing process. When rinsing, you can help speed things up by gently rubbing on the item while rinsing to help loosen the residue. Don't rub to hard though or you will rub the design back off. You will know when you are done rinsing as the item will start to have a dry feel to it and all the slimy residue will be gone.
Clear Coat:
This is the final process and probably one of the most important steps in the process. The clear coat is what protects the dipped design and gives it the glossy or matte finish you want.
Durability:
Hydro dipping is as durable as the paints and clears you use. If you use an automotive grade paint, then your graphics will be as long lasting and beautiful as the paint on a new car. Different paints are used for different applications, such as auto grade paint (for rims and auto parts) or Cerakote (for firearms and bows). You need to choose the right paint for your project.
Further information on Hydro-dipping - Johnno - 6th-Jul-20
Further information on Hydro-dipping.
How to Hydro Dip
Hydro dipping is a fun way to decorate any 3-D item that can be submerged in water without harm. While there are many companies specializing in hydro dip art for large items (e.g. cars and sports equipment), it’s possible to do the process on your own and be creative. Purchase a home hydro dip kit online to apply a design of your choice, with minimal equipment or experience. You can also use spray paint to hydro dip objects of your choice in your own unique designs!
Method 1
Using a Hydro Dipping kit
1 Purchase a kit. Look online for home hydro dip kits, which allow you to transfer a specific print or design onto a 3-D object (that can be submerged in water without harm) without specialized equipment. In general, companies making these kits will offer an assortment of designs to choose from to customize your kit. Basic home hydro dip kits should include:
- Patterned film
- Activator
- Top coat
- Basecoat
- Universal primer
2 Choose a suitable container. Most DIY kits will not come with a container to use during the dipping process. Choose a watertight plastic, glass, or aluminium container that is deep enough to fully submerge the object you are hydro dipping. It should also be long and wide enough to leave 5-6 inches (approximately 12-15 cm) between the edge of the container and the object.
3 Prepare the item. Make sure that the item you are dipping is free of dust and debris. Spray the item with the primer provided in your kit, enough to coat it but not enough for the primer to run. Apply 1-2 light coats of the base coat spray provided in your kit, and leave the item to dry for one or two hours.
4 Size and cut the film. Measure the size of the object you wish to cover and add 4-5 inches (approximately 12-15 cm) on each side. Cut the film accordingly. Make sure that the film remains dry during this process, as getting it wet could cause the image to warp.
- Place masking tape around the edges of the film to keep it from rolling.
5 Set up the container. Fill the container with hot (but not boiling) water, approximately ¾ of the way full. Carefully pick up the film and bring the opposite sides together, holding it like a sling. Place the bottom of the sling onto the middle of the surface of the water, and slowly bring the sides down to place the film flat on the water.
6 Let the film hydrate and apply the activator. Use your phone or a stopwatch to ensure that the film dissolves for sixty seconds. After the sixty seconds, spray the activator provided in your kit evenly over the film. Once coated, the film should take approximately 5-10 seconds to turn into liquid ink on the surface of the water.
- When the film is fully activated it will have a distinctly glossy appearance, and will expand to fill the entire surface size of the container.
7 Dip your item. Hold your item at a 45 degree angle and slowly submerge it into the water. Once the item is fully submerged, even out the angle by pushing it down towards the ink. Keep your movements fluid for best results.
- Put on gloves before dipping your item. If they are not supplied in the kit, purchase a pair before starting the whole dipping process.
9 Apply the top coat. After air drying the item, apply an even coat of the aerosol top coat spray provided in your kit. Let the item air dry before applying a second coat. Continue the process until the finish is to your liking.
Method 2
Hydro Dipping with Spray Paint
1 Gather what you need. Begin the hydro dip process by deciding what you want to paint, then pick paint colours and find a water-tight container large enough to accommodate the object. You can use one colour of spray paint, or several colours to swirl into cool designs with a disposable wooden stick. Purchase spray sealant (available at art stores or hardware stores) to seal your colourful design onto the object after hydro dipping, as well as protective gloves.
- The plastic container should be large enough that it won’t overflow if the object being painted is submerged in it. Buckets, large plastic storage containers, and feed tubs are all good options.
- If you do not wish to get paint on the container you are using, line it with plastic sheeting before pouring in the water.
2 Set up the painting area. If you can, set up outdoors (e.g. in your driveway or on the lawn) to avoid having your home smell like spray paint fumes. Make sure all of the items you will need are within arm’s reach, as the process of hydro dipping can go very quickly. Fill your container about ¾ full with lukewarm or warm water, as the ideal temperature for spray paint is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 10 to 32 degrees celsius).
- If you have to set up indoors, open as many windows and doors as possible and nearby furniture with plastic sheeting.
- Make sure to keep children and pets away from the area while you paint.
4 Spray paint onto the water’s surface. Make sure to shake the spray paint cans thoroughly to mix the paint before applying it. Hold the can 10 to 12 inches (approximately 25-30 cm) from the surface of the water and spray it to your heart’s content until the surface is coated. Switch between colours as desired to make your own unique creation.
- Colours will swirl together naturally on the water’s surface. To make smaller swirls, use a clean wooden stick to stir the colours until you’re left with a design you like.
- If you do not wish for the object you dipped to receive a second coat of paint on its way out of the water (which might alter the original swirl pattern of the paint), part the paint on the water’s surface before pulling the object out of the container. Having a second person to help you would be a big help for this step!
7 Use a clear, spray sealant. To keep your hydro dip paint looking fresh and clean, spray it with a clear spray sealant (available in hardware stores in matte, semi-gloss, or gloss finish). Spray an even coat over the object and let it dry for several hours. Apply the sealant only after the object is completely dry.
Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Hydro-Dip
RE: Hydro-dipping - Scuderia_Turini - 6th-Jul-20
Hydro-dripping is great if you simply want a colour or pattern on your slot-car but aligning it to match the body lines is very challenging. I have seen models painted with Tartan patterns but never seen one with the pattern square and straight.
Leo
RE: Hydro-dipping - Johnno - 6th-Jul-20
Leo, I think that is the idea behind the whole hydro-dipping scene, to get those wacky paint jobs. I'd say hydro-dipping is similar to that of the Rat Rods or even Air Brushing as we see on TV shows such as Counts Kustoms.
A few examples of what can be accomplished by Hydro-dipping. Images by Ben Dalriada Matheson on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/252867758736189/
images remain property of Ben Dalriada Matheson.
[attachment=7413] [attachment=7414] [attachment=7415] [attachment=7416] [attachment=7417] [attachment=7418] [attachment=7419] [attachment=7420] [attachment=7421] [attachment=7422]
RE: Hydro-dipping - dvd3500 - 7th-Jul-20
You can get a 0.005 mm black permanent marker (I use the Staeder brand, others are available) and draw the lines in...
RE: Hydro-dipping - DPJ - 7th-Jul-20
(7th-Jul-20, 08:03 AM)dvd3500 Wrote: You can get a 0.005 mm black permanent marker (I use the Staeder brand, others are available) and draw the lines in...
Staedtler 0.05mm Black
RE: Hydro-dipping - Nonfractal - 8th-Jul-20
Great write up!
The films I use are from Dipthis.co.uk
Where do you source your films?
The only thing I would add to this writeup is a big warning that this is not a process do do in your house, the activator spray is poisonous. A very well ventilated space is required and masks are recommended,
Alan.
RE: Hydro-dipping - dvd3500 - 8th-Jul-20
Ah yes... a 0 to0 many :-)
RE: Hydro-dipping - 155Stick - 9th-Jul-20
You can also mask area's off so they don't get dipped.[attachment=7505]
RE: Hydro-dipping - DPJ - 9th-Jul-20
(9th-Jul-20, 04:03 PM)155Stick Wrote: You can also mask area's off so they don't get dipped.
Wow that's a busy livery! How'd you do that one?