Whats on your bench ... - Printable Version

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - dazee - 25th-Aug-22

(21st-Aug-22, 01:25 PM)Savage GT Wrote:  all the faffing mixing paint to the right consistency ( yes I know you can buy it ready to airbrush but that wasn't what I had for the colour).
I am not a fan of how the colour went on either, seemed averse to any join or panel line.
Then the paint I used dried at the airbrush nozzle while waiting for the first coat to touch dry for another coat.

In short I guess I just prefer the way aerosols cover and get in nooks and crannies in the first pass !
Yes its long term more expensive but I'll live with that for less faff !

I striped off the top coat, the undercoat is mostly intact, so I will just re-undercoat with Tamiya primer and then topcoat in due course.

I know what you mean.  I was pulled into it the same, lured by youtube videos making it seem so easy.  So many failed attempts were made to get it to work, and so much time was spent cleaning needles/nozzles afterward.  Hats off to those that do it effortlessly - or seemingly so.

Have not given up yet, but until I get proficient I will limit myself to practicing on those that require a less than perfect finish.

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - DPJ - 25th-Aug-22

(25th-Aug-22, 04:26 AM)dazee Wrote:  

(21st-Aug-22, 01:25 PM)Savage GT Wrote:  all the faffing mixing paint to the right consistency ( yes I know you can buy it ready to airbrush but that wasn't what I had for the colour).
I am not a fan of how the colour went on either, seemed averse to any join or panel line.
Then the paint I used dried at the airbrush nozzle while waiting for the first coat to touch dry for another coat.

In short I guess I just prefer the way aerosols cover and get in nooks and crannies in the first pass !
Yes its long term more expensive but I'll live with that for less faff !

I striped off the top coat, the undercoat is mostly intact, so I will just re-undercoat with Tamiya primer and then topcoat in due course.

I know what you mean.  I was pulled into it the same, lured by youtube videos making it seem so easy.  So many failed attempts were made to get it to work, and so much time was spent cleaning needles/nozzles afterward.  Hats off to those that do it effortlessly - or seemingly so.

Have not given up yet, but until I get proficient I will limit myself to practicing on those that require a less than perfect finish.

I think part of the frustration is not having the correct consistency in the paint that's being sprayed for the airbrush and needle size. Also, having a sub-par airbrush with the wrong needle size equals quick failure. I'm certainly no pro, but with good tools I can do a good job. My goto airbrush is my PS290 with the notched nozzle - it will spray anything and really doesn't need a pro to make the job come out right.

I saw a comment earlier about the paint drying on the tip of the airbrush between sprays - yeah, it's paint! Of course it's gonna dry very quickly at the tip unless you keep spraying. Methods need to change coming from rattle cans also. A quick solve is dab a round bristle brush in some acetone and touch the tip of the airbrush when you've still got paint in the holder and need to wait 15 minutes for what you just sprayed to dry. That'll clean the tip temporarily so the paint won't clog. Then when you're ready to start spraying again, start on a piece of cardboard to be sure no chunks come out.

There are methods to end the madness and create great results with little effort! You can do it!!

ohh... Barbatos Rex on youtube mostly is who I watch

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - dazee - 25th-Aug-22

Thanks for the advice, I will keep plugging on and improving - hopefully.  As with all things very rare is instant success and need to keep working at it.

Have an Iwata neo, so hopefully should be good enough for fair results.

This week I have done some more airbrushing as I work on the next fun car.
[attachment=25800]


Still some way to go, and not sure yet which way to go for the chassis - am tempted to try my hand at the aluminum, U channel.  Contemplating for a while...

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - Savage GT - 25th-Aug-22

TBH its also been compounded by having a deadline to get he car ready for a proxy race.
Now, the Tamiya spray ordered supposed to show up Tuesday, still no show 

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - Top Down - 25th-Aug-22

Another that really doesn't qualify here, where many are scratch built but - it was on my workbench for two or three days. A second hand racer from another forum, I'd been after an NSR Fiat Abarth S2000 for a while. This was in nice shape and I was going to say 'with no damage' but I've just spotted a chip off the front spoiler (on the far side) where it should blend into the wheel arch. Never mind, it's a legitimate battle scar and if it's taken me 3 weeks to spot it ...... ?

The main work has been on the body, starting with a good scrub with a toothbrush and hot soapy water, then dismantling of the platform interior into its component parts. This was further cleaned then reassembled using GS Hypo cement and 'proper' heat sealing of various small parts, including the roll cage. 

[attachment=25801]

The rear window/taillight assembly was a good fit from the NSR factory but I still 'seam-welded' it using the capilliary action of 'extra thin' styrene cement. The screen/side window fitting was poor. The front screen fit was 'reasonable' but the attached side windows gradually dropped away to the rear so they hung down below the body sides, leaving gaps at the top. These had to be gently eased into place and again 'seam-welded' into the apertures a little at a time, using wooden clothes pegs as clamps. 

Although loose at one end the rear spoiler was undamaged so just needed securing - again with GS Hypo (thanks to several guys on here that recommended it a long - long time ago!), the whole thing given another wash before reassembly. The same 'seam-welding' method was used on the driver platform so the body is now a single solid unit, which I much prefer.

Very little has been done to the chassis yet. The usual clean and relube, the tyres switched round so the logos show, although I hadn't done the rears when the photo was taken - and the front end was freed up. The height adjusting grub screws were eased off a fraction, same with one wheel, it being eased out a cigarette paper's width to get the front axle rolling freely and the motor wires re-routed so they didn't rub either. 

The original owner had done a neat job of locking the drop arm in place so that was left alone but the rear tyres will get replaced at some point, as they're the standard fit tyres from a RTR Slot.it, so I'm guessing not too grippy for magless racing on Scalextric Sport track.

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - DPJ - 25th-Aug-22

(25th-Aug-22, 07:13 AM)Savage GT Wrote:  TBH its also been compounded by having a deadline to get he car ready for a proxy race.
Now, the Tamiya spray ordered supposed to show up Tuesday, still no show 

Yeah, pressure to get it done certainly doesn't help!

The universe is telling you to get back on with the airbrush!! Go watch a Barbatos Rex video where he's testing the paint you have - mixing it for the correct consistency, what thinner he's using, what air pressure and needle to use. It's worth another shot, or two!!

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - chrisguyw - 25th-Aug-22

(25th-Aug-22, 06:58 AM)dazee Wrote:  Still some way to go, and not sure yet which way to go for the chassis - am tempted to try my hand at the aluminum, U channel.  Contemplating for a while...

If you are planning on using a low torque, low RPM (14/15H ish) motor, and skinny low grip tyres, an aluminum U channel chassis will go round just fine, a stronger motor and grippier tyres will perform much better in a chassis with some torsional flex.

Cheers
Chris Walker

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - Carver - 28th-Aug-22

I am dipping a toe in the vintage swamp again. The motor shaft variations would turn my hair gray if it wasn't gray already!

Two DC 196-b powered 1/32 scale T-birds on my bench. The white car is up and running, I was lucky to have suiting gears laying around.
[attachment=25842]

For the yellow one, I ordered gears specifying the purpose. The pinion does not fit, of course...
[attachment=25843]

So, what to do? Is there any simple way to make it fit? Or does anybody know where I can get the right size bits?
Advice would be much appreciated... 
Carver

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - Anthony B - 28th-Aug-22

Hi Carver
.
What do you want to make fit - Gears or chassis to body or chassis to motor?

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RE: Whats on your bench ... - Carver - 28th-Aug-22

Anthony,
It has all been sorted, except for the pinion/crown gear!
 The Pittman motor shaft is .o92, I believe. The Strombecker gears I got are for a thicker shaft.
Now, I am not a toolmaker, maybe the right thing to do is to get a gear set that fits! But where?
The local ironmonger most likely doesn't stock it...

Carver

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