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RE: Sideways Nissan Skyline Turbo Group 5 6
Thread Subject Forum Name
Sideways Nissan Skyline Turbo Group 5 News
Post Message
Here you go- For Savage and anyone else interested.

Intro first, copied from my review

I have been looking forward to this car a lot. I haven’t built a new Group 5 racer for club in a long time.
Taking the car from the box, the first thing that struck me was that it looks really BIG. A closer look and comparison with my BMW M1 revealed surprises.
The wheelbase is about the same. The body width which looks huge is just 1mm wider than the BMW M1 at 66mm
Length rear axle centre to guide post centre ~95mm
Wheelbase 79.5mm
Guide lead15.5mm
Max rear track to outer vertical edge of tyres 65mm
Max front track to outer vertical edge of tyres 63mm
[So max track is about 63mm and 65mm allowing for the tyres effectively swinging inward under the body as the body tilts
They are effectively inline with the middle of the wheel arch material when viewed on the vertical plane.]
The body is a little higher than the M1, but I don't expect this to change handling much.
Tampo work and paint look fine and even with no bleed.
[Image: nissan2.jpg] [Image: nissan3.jpg]
But it has more overhang behind the rear axle.
[Image: nissan1.jpg]
It is longer overall, and may have a touch more guide lead.
The mechanical setup is identical to other Sideways models, fitted with a Flat-6, 11:28 gearing, and 17.3 x 8mm alloys on the back, plastic on the front.
Guide is a CH85 with the usual relatively stiff braid. This will need changing out for a soft braid if you are doing non magnet racing.
Standard tyres appear to be the C1 compound. Again, for non magnet racing you will want to replace these with something suited to your track.

Under the base of the display box are the usual bits and pieces for altering the mechanical offset of the rear axle and mounting a digital chip.
Do not panic when you see the rear spoiler crossmember is missing from the car – that is also under the base, and just clips in place.
There is a flexible black replacement wing available separately for purchase, I will also fit that to the car for racing.
[Image: nissan6.jpg]
The body is very light at 18 grams and the wheel arches are open very high.
[Image: nissan5.jpg]
Overall weight is still a smidgen over 80 grams.

I found a set of 17 x 10mm rims with high profile NSR 21 x 12 ultragrips I had pre-trued.
[Image: nissan14.jpg]
So I set the car up first with the standard configuration using these wheels
I switched the standard rear axle holder with 0.5mmm offset, for the one in the bag of bits with 1mm offset, which lowered the car, and added some 0.5mm
rubber spacers between the pod mounts and the chassis. I set the front and rear pod screws at 3/4 turn off tight and the side wing ones at just over a turn
off tight, and obtained 5.1s for bare chassis with the usual little things done, 5.3s with the body on.
I didn't add any nose weight to this heavier stock configuration, but feel I was pushing the limits for nose lift out of corners.

But as I am a sidewinder junkie, I decided to use a pod unit that was sitting already assembled on my bench.
Nipped off the triangular "winglets" inside the front of the chassis, so it could accept a pod.

[Image: nissan12.jpg]
This was a CH67 pod with 0.5mm offset, and a Orange Bell / MX16 motor, geared 11:35. It already has the motor screwed in place for additional
pod rigidity.
I added 6 grams weight around the guide to hold the nose down.
This has a bit less power than the stock Flat-6 unit in the car, but as I want this car for racing smaller tracks, I am hoping to emulate a Moby Dick Porsche
I used to have set up the same way. That car was easier to drive on small tracks than my high power BMW M1 pictured earlier.

- Glued and trued front tyres – My easy method. I haven't clear-coated them, something to come back to when I have spare time.
Outside edge, roll back tyre around entire circumference, drip glue onto outer edge, snap back into place, leave to dry.

[Image: nissan9.jpg] [Image: nissan10.jpg]
Inside edge - peel back a little at a time, drip, release.

- Nipped “side wings” off sidewinder pod, as they aren’t used.
Replaced pod screws with longer ones - these are actually body mount screws.
Set wheel width on non-drive side with 2mm of spacers, and on drive side with a single 0.5mm steel spacers for free spinning

[Image: nissan11.jpg]

I have the original washer on the screw coming from underneath the pod, then that 1mm thick red rubber washer between the top of the chassis and the
underside of the screw mount of the pod. These cushion pod movement in a similar way to using tape under the chassis, but are adjustable.
This has the effect of raising the pod 1mm, and lowers the rear end which has those large 21mm diameter tyres. I now have about 1mm track clearance.
Note that this chassis has those silver vertical ribs under the main plate – emulating the 1:1 car. Be careful you don’t make the car so low they touch.

How do I know this . . . . . .
- Front ride height set for full guide depth.
- Replaced body screws with longer 10mm half smooth shaft ones, and fitted the same little red rubber washer on the screw before putting onto car.
Like with the pod, this is cushioning the pull of the screw onto the underside of the chassis.
If you wanted to be clever you could use one between the chassis and the body post, but you would want to shorten the body post by the same amount
so you don’t raise the body.
- Replaced those rear BBS insets with some G5R01 from Sideways as used on the Capri and Mustang, which look a lot nicer.

[Image: nissan13.jpg]

With a further tickle of the tyres; the car now does consistent 5.1s and 5.2s around my track. Faster than my old Porsche Moby Dick, and just 0.1 slower
than my higher powered M1, which came 2nd in an Australasian Gr.5 proxy series way back, and has since been improved.

I am running the pod screws half a turn off finger tight, just moving, and the body screws backed off one full turn. It seems a little touchy about the
setting of the body screws. Too tight and it can't rock enough to correctly load up the amount of tyre grip - which is significant. I can go around my
150mm radius hairpin at a speed that would make some think it had wood magnets fitted.

[Image: nissan16.jpg]

That isn't a fault in the front spoiler Tampo, there is actually a tow hook protruding at the front of the car above the wing level.

[Image: nissan15.jpg]

As you can see, I have only a bare MM clearance at rear after lifting the pod with the rubber spacers.